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Reset ECU/TCU steps for your throttle response


Guest vincemerz

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hi just wondering does the moderator mind to pinned this up on how to reset ecu? cause in my own opinion it is very useful for most of us.

Job done! Topic title edited & make sticky!:)

Cheers

I'm a MB Whore! :)

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys. Tried the above method.

Seems to feel more responsive.

Usually the move off from traffic lights is a bit sluggish. Now it seems more responsive.

I heard a few clicks after the last step. Not sure which is correct click But I timed 5 mins just to be safe.

Anyway not sure it's psychological or it's real. Will monitor. :P

Anyway after travelling almost 4000 km. fuel finally seems to stablise too

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  • 1 month later...

I just tried it. THINK it works.

Before I did this reset thing, when driving outta my house basement carpark at slow speeds, the car used to suddenly change gear midway up the slope, and cause the car to lunge forward.

I'm very wary of this because I've experienced it lunge forward just as I am approaching a carpark gantry. Sabo me. Make me ganjiong hit the brakes.

Now I don't get that anymore (monitoring).

Car ride seems to be smoother now, although it may be like what some of the other bros say, psychological :)

Regarding the "tack" sound, I did the procedure after shutting down my car from a long drive. There was a lot of tick tiak tick tiak all over the place from cooling metal.

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  • 2 weeks later...

anyone did a reset with a piggyback ecu tuning mod attached? does it lose power? wanna reset mine but afraid my piggyback turns into dummy set.. as i know nuts about cars/ IT . thanks!

I have B25 S. Just did a ECU reset. Don't seem to affect the piggy.

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Gear change happens more between 2.5 to 3K rpm. The low end smooth. Upper end same as before reset. ie - no loss of performance (my butt feeling).

But have to admit don't know how your piggy is picking what sensors.

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  • 4 months later...

Gear change happens more between 2.5 to 3K rpm. The low end smooth. Upper end same as before reset. ie - no loss of performance (my butt feeling).

But have to admit don't know how your piggy is picking what sensors.

 

 

You must do it in a very quiet environment eg. carpark. You will hear a very light tick. Immediately when I drove off, the car feel lighter on the feet. It seems

more responsive during the initial pickup. However I am not sure whether this can last for how long. After some time, you get use to it and cannot feel

the diff. That is psychology.

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  • 10 months later...

Key positions:

Position 0: when the key is just inserted into the slot without any turning.

Position 1: turn the key one click to the right (clockwise).

Position 2: turn the key another click to the right (clockwise). This should be the last position before you crank the engine. To confirm that u are in this position, all your dash board warning signs will be displayed like a christmas tree decoration:becky:

Position 3: Crank position if u turn the key one more click to the right (clockwise) but note that this position will automatically return to Position 2 once you release the pressure on the key.

Reset ECU/TCU steps:

1) Make sure your car is stationary with the engine switched off and key out of the ignition and in your hand

2) sit in the driver seat

3) insert the key into position 0

4) turn the key 2 clicks clockwise to position 2

5) step on the accelerator pedal fully to the floor (until you activate the kickdown button at the end of the pedal travel) and hold for > 5 seconds. Don't need to be exact but I usually wait for about 10 seconds just to be safe..

6) now with your right foot still fully depressing the accelerator pedal, turn your key counter-clockwise to position 0 and hold for >1 second. I usually hold for 3-5 seconds without any detriment to the effort.

7) now release your right foot from the accelerator. Your key should still be in the ignition hole at position 0.

8) Wait for about 4-6 minutes (the timing have been reported to varies across different models)

9) in the mean time do not touch anything electrical/buttons in the car as the ECU/TCU sort of "reboot".

10) when time is nearly up, listen for a single "tack"-sound coming somewhere from the steering column. That is indication that your reset is successful

11) now take out your key from the ignition hole and you are done.

12) if you want to drive off immediately, still must complete step (11) before re-inserting the key to start your car as usual.After reset, you will notice that your car holds the gear longer as you drive around. Some say drive around your usual style so that it will learn it and adjust to your style optimally. Some say drive it aggressively for 10Km so that it will learn the more aggressive driving shifting and your car will be more responsive. What ever it is....you can try both ways...it's free anyway:bounce:

Thanks!! It work on my E200 2007 w211. Better respond now. As for the " tack " sound , for my case it came out after 3 min+ .

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  • 1 year later...

Folks, there are so many different versions on various MB forums. Some say audio system and aircon also have to be switched off for this to work. Do you guys do that too? I tried sitting inside the car and was struggling for the whole 6mins to hear the tack sound without aircon.... Almost die... Lol

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Folks, there are so many different versions on various MB forums. Some say audio system and aircon also have to be switched off for this to work. Do you guys do that too? I tried sitting inside the car and was struggling for the whole 6mins to hear the tack sound without aircon.... Almost die... Lol

Lol. Better to off radio.

Wind down windows first and park under shelter!

Haha

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Lol. Better to off radio.

Wind down windows first and park under shelter!

Haha

 

Haha. I survived in the end. lol...

 

And I actually heard 3 "tack" sound with first tack after 1 min and 2nd tack at 2 mins and so on. After 3rd tack, nothing happen. And finally waited until the 6th mins are up to pull out the key and reinsert in again to start engine. And guess what?? The engine shutdown problem was cured again!!! See http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/20510-need-help-car-engine-keep-dying/for more detail.

Even though the engine warning light is still lit up but when I drove the car for the next 30mins, the engine did not shutdown, not on idle and not on reversing. 

It seemed like this reset fixed the problem I am facing. Not sure if this is permanent or only temporary.... lets see.

 

And now the car really drive like a brand new car like many here have described. However the engine sound is noticeably louder. but the acceleration and pick up was so different. From previous so sluggish slow to pick up and slow to brake as well to now even the brake become more responsive. A little bit of history here, after I changed from stock brakes to ATE ceremic brake, I find the braking distance longer and even ebrake also pretty screwed up causing me to stopped inside yellow box (http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/19760-ate-ceremic-brakepads-w204/), but now... the brakes become so responsive again. This is such a pleasant surprise. I can really feel the difference in pick up and slow down.

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Thanks for all these information, guys. Doe this also clear any registered fault from the ECU memory?

 

And just to answer my own question in case anyone here ask the same in the future. Nope, reset ECU doesn't clear away the fault registered. Still need to go back to workshop to do that using Xentry.

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Haha. I survived in the end. lol...

And I actually heard 3 "tack" sound with first tack after 1 min and 2nd tack at 2 mins and so on. After 3rd tack, nothing happen. And finally waited until the 6th mins are up to pull out the key and reinsert in again to start engine. And guess what?? The engine shutdown problem was cured again!!! See http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/20510-need-help-car-engine-keep-dying/for more detail.

Even though the engine warning light is still lit up but when I drove the car for the next 30mins, the engine did not shutdown, not on idle and not on reversing.

It seemed like this reset fixed the problem I am facing. Not sure if this is permanent or only temporary.... lets see.

And now the car really drive like a brand new car like many here have described. However the engine sound is noticeably louder. but the acceleration and pick up was so different. From previous so sluggish slow to pick up and slow to brake as well to now even the brake become more responsive. A little bit of history here, after I changed from stock brakes to ATE ceremic brake, I find the braking distance longer and even ebrake also pretty screwed up causing me to stopped inside yellow box (http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/19760-ate-ceremic-brakepads-w204/), but now... the brakes become so responsive again. This is such a pleasant surprise. I can really feel the difference in pick up and slow down.

New ATE brakes? Maybe need time to wear in?

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And just to answer my own question in case anyone here ask the same in the future. Nope, reset ECU doesn't clear away the fault registered. Still need to go back to workshop to do that using Xentry.

MB cars got so many control units , resetting it just clear the error code temporary

My experience is with my Central gateway, spend $160 for the workshop guy to reset and happy for 1 week only and error come back after

$160 down drain.

Problem with outside workshop is most of them play guessing games.

When come to mechanical issue, most are ok

But when come to electrical/electronic issues, most CMI unless happens that the guy have resolve one before

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$160 just to clear fault code? Wow .... I always do that for free....

MB cars got so many control units , resetting it just clear the error code temporary

My experience is with my Central gateway, spend $160 for the workshop guy to reset and happy for 1 week only and error come back after

$160 down drain.

Problem with outside workshop is most of them play guessing games.

When come to mechanical issue, most are ok

But when come to electrical/electronic issues, most CMI unless happens that the guy have resolve one before

The world Most dangerous thing is the Vehicle. Its not about the machine weather its slow or fast. Its the person who is controlling it. The driver is the brain of the Machine. Not the machine itself.

If the driver reacts slow even the most powerful ABS(Auto braking system) will not help. The driver has to give the car the command in Order for the car to react. Afterall he is the brain of the car.

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