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XiaoYing_Video_1604343783535.mp4 VID_506581117_122142_757.mp4 XiaoYing_Video_1604343783535.mp4 VID_506581117_122142_757.mp4 Merc C200 Contvertible, the car you see on the roads and if you know, you will say it in your heart or just shout out, "@teojimmy !" Followed by taking out ya phone snap a photo and put in groupchats, caption: "Spotted!" 😅 Haha, yes a car you can not miss. A fully wrapped design inspired by the Movie, Fast and Furious. Uh-hum... how to miss? So with limited time, limited videoing experience & editing... His exhaust sounded so sexy, I have to record, it is stalk and is Kufatec. You can change modes of sounds! Was too rush, otherwise the sound will be better heard in a confined area! Nice still, just on your speaker louder. Lol! A quickie done, presenting The Merc C200 Convertible. Thank you bro, @teojimmy for giving us your support. Hope you like our service and we should catch up together! With @_joeybe ! Take care for now and send some kisses to the twins. 😘
For those interested to have instructions on how to remove the door panel, please refer to the other thread on that. http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/25356-glc-remove-front-internal-door-panel/
After the interior door panel is removed, this is what you have. Notice the empty triangular speaker grille?
Look at the following picture for reference on where are the clips and connection points. This will let you know where to push/pull to release the stock grille as well as where the new rotary tweeters should be installed. The highlights are colour coded to show where the surfaces are mated. Blue to blue, green to green and red to red.
The 3D Rotary Tweeter main housing installed in the position of the former orginial empty speaker grille.
This is the 3D tweeter held up and labeled to show the important connection points. Essentially split into 2 sets: S= Speaker L=Led.
The various connection points before attachments
After connecting to some of the stock door connectors
Now hold up the interior door panel, connect S1 connector to the door panel speaker, plug one of the blue connectors to "5" slot of the DCM. Plug the other blue connector to L2 connector.
Next, you are ready to reinstall the door panel:
- reattach the door latch wire
- thread the door lock knob through the hole in the door panel
- line up all the panel holder 8+1 bits, make sure the top horizontal window edge is "hooked" along the attachment ledge. Start to give firm hard thud using heel of your palms to secure down the door panel to the metal frame.
- screw in the 2 T30 torx screw into the original holes.
- switch on your engine and enjoy the fruits of your labour!
How to remove and install the door lock pins yourself. Applies to most if not all Mercedes car models.
1. Tools and material
- replacement door lock pins (make sure they are the correct dimensions and length)
- claw wrench
2. Original plastic door lock pin, make sure it is in unlocked postion. Retract your windows fully to prevent accidental damage from the wrench action.
3. Using the rag to protect the relatively soft plastic door pin, grab the pin firmly with the claw wrench and twist it in anti-clockwise direction.
4. How the removed plastic door lock pin and the anchoring screw stub looks like.
5. Installation of the stainless steel door pins are simply twisting them in clockwise direction till they are finger tight. I don't find any good reason to make them tighter than that.
Just did a swap of my hood badge for the black one to match with my black rim caps.
- 3M Painter's Tape to protect your paintwork.
- trim removal tool (not too big as you want the pry edge to be as narrow as possible to get under the tight fitted badge)
- rag for cleaning up finger prints and the dirt under the original badge.
- of course the badge you want to swap for. Make sure is the correct model. Note the 2 pins in vertical alignment. Some are horizontal.
2. Paste the 3M Painter's Tape around the hood badge as close to the edge as possible.
3. Use your trim removal tool and try to get the narrowest edge underneath the badge. Try all round to find a relatively looser spot. Once you get your tool under, it is very easy to simply wedge the trim removal tool further in. Go all around to ease the badge up without breaking the 2 anchoring pins.
4. Once the badge is removed, you can see the grommets holding the badge pins down. No need to replace these unless they are worn or you have removed the badge forcibly at an awkward angle, damaging them in the process. Clean up the dirt around the area and position your new replacment badge (check and double check the orientation!) before pressing it down.
5. Stand back and admire your handy work!
After changing to the rear flared fenders, realised that my rear wheels are too "tucked" in to be aesthetically pleasing. I like the non-staggered 19" AMG rims with the RFT from factory, which is a good compromise between comfort, handling and aesthetics.
So, decided to add spacers to push out the rear wheels after much research on the effects on the suspension and handling. Did a comparision on the specs of the factory options 19", 20",21" and came to conclusion that I can push the rear wheels out by 20 to 30mm without differing too much from the bigger staggered options rims.
Someone asked me why not just pay a small amount to a tire/wheels shop to get it done? Why go through all these hassle?
Well, for one, for proper installation, we need to apply anti-seize on the right surface, torque the bolts till factory specs and after driving around for 150km or so, we need to remove the wheels and retorque all the bolts again just to make sure they are secured. I don't think any of the workshop will take as much effort to do the above properly.
As with all diy projects, the sweat and aching arms and back is all well worth it once you are done and took a step back.
So here you go, the installation pictorial.
As mentioned in the other thread, the secondary goal of the spacers installation is achieved with the increased lateral and cornering stability. I can go round curves, sweepers and bends at higher speed than before. Definitely more sure footed than the stock standard track width.