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Brake Hold — Malfunction


nala

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Hello bros,

 

I've got this irritating thing going on...

My brake hold for FLw204 180k malfunction erratically.

But at least I know for sure it won't work in the morning when I first start the car.

I need to turn off and turn on my car for it to work.

 

The only mod I did was to change my headlights to HID and turned on my DRL with a reputable workshop.

This as well is an angle that See_n_See Eunos took and blame this mod for causing the brake hold to malfunction.

Saying that the electronics shouldn't be changed, etc.

 

My ride is only 20mths old...

 

Did anyone of you encounter brake hold not working too?

Mechanic at Eunos told me to change back to original light bulbs and send back to workshop... :(

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Dont think it is the mod you stated that caused the mulfunction. Many of us on this mod but the hold function still working fine. But this is the risk we have to bear for modding....cnc blaming unauthorised mod for system failure....they have the rights to demand us to de mod if we want to claim under the warranty.

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1. You sure U apply the brake hold function correctly and it failed consistently?

2. Go for 2nd "medical opinion" - Go CnC MBC or Pandan Loop.

Cheers

I'm a MB Whore! :)

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Actually, I have the same problem, brake hold intermittently won't work. Similar situation with TS, when I first start the car in the morning or park my car for a prolonged period of time, it won't work. I gotta drive for a distance and restart the engine before the system works. Have been using brake hold since I got the car two years ago. This issue started arising about 6 months ago for me. I am very reliant on the brake hold function so it gets quite frustrating when the system doesn't kick in especially during jams.

 

During my last servicing at Pandan Loop two months back, I told the SA about the issue. Besides my other mods, I have after market BBKs installed. The SA says the mods won't affect the brake hold function. When he returned my car, he told me diagnostics passed the brake system and everything is working fine. However, the problem was not resolved. Hadn't have time to go back Pandan since then. 

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I had the same problem previously. After diagnostic by CNC suspected due to my grounding cables which I transferred from my previous ride. In the end, the brake hold function restored after removing the grounding cables.

Apparently somehow it caused the electronic signal to be cut off to activate the brake hold. Didn't know so sensitive one.

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I have this irritating HOLD issue too.

It started for me about 2 months ago. My ride is 1.5 years old.

The only change I've made to the car is a car cam connected to the battery for almost a year now.

Same as the other bros here, my brake hold refuses to work when the car is first started.

But consistently, the HOLD function works when engine temperature crosses 80 degrees.

Not sure whether it is really a temperature issue, or if it is correlated to amount of time engine is running (charging up the electrics?)

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We (nala & I) suspect its battery related. Both of us have DVR with power magic installed. Nala removed his and last I heard brake hold function works on morning startup.

I didn't remove my power magic but set the voltage to a higher cut off. Brake hold works much better and constantly now although still intermittent. However, my gearbox jerk when "cold start" issue vanished.

Probably battery drains too much with the DVR.

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Dear bros,


Just to keep you guys updated on this issue. In case you're still experiencing this too…


I've went to Ah Boon to help me remove the power magic, but I've kept my Blackvue.


So, it'll turn on whenever my engine is running. no parking mode.


 


Day 1


Perfect!


 


Day 2-5


Brake Hold works in the morning.


But malfunction once a day consistently


 


Day 6


Brake Hold malfunction in the morning, but works in the afternoon.


 


Day 7


Whole day malfunction


Action: At night, I unplug Blackvue(from the pin). The power cable wired internally to the DC(cigarette lighter) adaptor is still intact. 


 


Day 8


Malfunction in the morning


Works in the afternoon onwards


 


Day 9 (Today)


Malfunction since morning…


 


My next step:


I'm wondering if I should…


1. Totally remove the Blackvue (w/ the power cable detached from my car)


2. Buy UPS/Battery pack (T-Power C+) http://www.blackvue.com.sg/tpower-c-battery-pack.html


3. Go MBC(Which I really doubt they'll know.. since Eunos can't solve it)


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You need a stronger batt. I believe it will solve the problem. I have mentioned this before...the Blue Efficiency that's in our cars is not charging the batt fully on the move (only70%), unlike other cars. It's supposed to run "trim" in a stock car for blue efficiency philosophy....IMO, its dumb. If you were to add extra accessories like car cam or bigger amp, the batt will kaput fast. This was revealed to me by the German specialist who took a look at my car after 2 batts died on me in 1.5 yrs.

I have not got any problem since installing the Varta  AGM batt.

post-178-0-26001900-1382420147_thumb.jpg

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You need a stronger batt.

I have not got any problem since installing the Varta  AGM batt.

First to BATA! Then to school....hehehe! :)

Cheers

I'm a MB Whore! :)

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You need a stronger batt. I believe it will solve the problem. I have mentioned this before...the Blue Efficiency that's in our cars is not charging the batt fully on the move (only70%), unlike other cars. It's supposed to run "trim" in a stock car for blue efficiency philosophy....IMO, its dumb. If you were to add extra accessories like car cam or bigger amp, the batt will kaput fast. This was revealed to me by the German specialist who took a look at my car after 2 batts died on me in 1.5 yrs.

I have not got any problem since installing the Varta  AGM batt.

 

Hmm.. sorry, mind if I ask stupid question.

Would it void warranty? Cus last time the Advisor makes noise... telling me don't MOD...

And also, where and how much you change for? I'm not very good at such stuffs :(

Hope you can help. Thanks man

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Hmm.. sorry, mind if I ask stupid question.

Would it void warranty? Cus last time the Advisor makes noise... telling me don't MOD...

And also, where and how much you change for? I'm not very good at such stuffs :(

Hope you can help. Thanks man.

 

 

 

Changing a batt will not void warranty...it's like changing tyres. These are considered as expendable items (wear & tear).

Can get this batt from any authorised Varta dealers. The price is about twice as much as a normal batt ($400) & weighs almost twice as heavy as its a gel batt not water based. Got mine from Khai Wah Batt & tyres...tel 62926700.

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Changing a batt will not void warranty...it's like changing tyres. These are considered as expendable items (wear & tear).

Can get this batt from any authorised Varta dealers. The price is about twice as much as a normal batt ($400) & weighs almost twice as heavy as its a gel batt not water based. Got mine from Khai Wah Batt & tyres...tel 62926700.

 

Thanks. I've just called. They asked me which capacity I want. 80Ah($350) or 100Ah($400)

You've got went 70Ah?

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Thanks. I've just called. They asked me which capacity I want. 80Ah($350) or 100Ah($400)

You've got went 70Ah?

80Ah should be good enough. 100Ah may not be able to fit into the space.

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Bata is short form for buy and throw away. ....

"First to BATA, then to school!"

One of BATA advert slogan before.

When people asked me before where I worked.

I told them VARTA! Oh you working for BATA shoes arh.....:)

Back to topic:

When you start your car, your battery crank the engine to start it.

Next your battery should be charged up and the alternator takes over to supply current to system.

Battery go to sleep.

If your car is loaded with gadgets and especially stop at the traffic lights and the alternator output is not enough to supply current to your system, it starts to drain your battery. Then your battery goes to many cycle of charge & discharge.

Every battery has a cycle life I.e the number of times it get charged and discharged.

The more you go through these cycles, the life of the battery get shorter.

No 2 batteries are made alike meaning especially between brands in their cycle life.

Just like buying an " after market hp or camera battery" vs an original one.

The original ones have to meet specifications set by the OEM equipment manufacturer.

So usually a "branded battery" tends to has a longer cycle life.

Furthermore eg. Your car alternator say rated at 45Amp.

The alternator output is not giving 45Amp when you stopped your car and idling at 700 to 800 rpm.

Meaning if your car is loaded with gadgets and car at idle, your alternator is not at full rated output.

It will normally hit the rated output at >1500rpm

2 school of thoughts

1. Get a branded higher capacity battery is just like getting a bigger pail of water that has more chances of getting replenished(longer cycle life).

2. Get a bigger alternator if there's an option. It's now getting a tap that flows out more water than you need then

you don't need a bigger pail of water as your pail don't need to be replenished so often (less cycle life used)

My previous W124 there was an option for a 100AMP Bosch Alternator vs the stock 60AMP

This I've not explore for the current rides & hope I do not need either options.

Long time ago especially FIAT cars exported to S'pore, the alternator was not spec to run aircon.

The car battery do not last more than 6 months cos the battery has to go through many cycles of charge & discharge.

A bigger alternator solve the problem

Any more writing this post gets too boring to read.

RM0.01 worth.

Cheers

I'm a MB Whore! :)

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"First to BATA, then to school!"

One of BATA advert slogan before.

When people asked me before where I worked.

I told them VARTA! Oh you working for BATA shoes arh.....:)

Back to topic:

When you start your car, your battery crank the engine to start it.

Next your battery should be charged up and the alternator takes over to supply current to system.

Battery go to sleep.

If your car is loaded with gadgets and especially stop at the traffic lights and the alternator output is not enough to supply current to your system, it starts to drain your battery. Then your battery goes to many cycle of charge & discharge.

Every battery has a cycle life I.e the number of times it get charged and discharged.

The more you go through these cycles, the life of the battery get shorter.

No 2 batteries are made alike meaning especially between brands in their cycle life.

Just like buying an " after market hp or camera battery" vs an original one.

The original ones have to meet specifications set by the OEM equipment manufacturer.

So usually a "branded battery" tends to has a longer cycle life.

Furthermore eg. Your car alternator say rated at 45Amp.

The alternator output is not giving 45Amp when you stopped your car and idling at 700 to 800 rpm.

Meaning if your car is loaded with gadgets and car at idle, your alternator is not at full rated output.

It will normally hit the rated output at >1500rpm

2 school of thoughts

1. Get a branded higher capacity battery is just like getting a bigger pail of water that has more chances of getting replenished(longer cycle life).

2. Get a bigger alternator if there's an option. It's now getting a tap that flows out more water than you need then

you don't need a bigger pail of water as your pail don't need to be replenished so often (less cycle life used)

My previous W124 there was an option for a 100AMP Bosch Alternator vs the stock 60AMP

This I've not explore for the current rides & hope I do not need either options.

Long time ago especially FIAT cars exported to S'pore, the alternator was not spec to run aircon.

The car battery do not last more than 6 months cos the battery has to go through many cycles of charge & discharge.

A bigger alternator solve the problem

Any more writing this post gets too boring to read.

RM0.01 worth.

The batt guru from Varta has spoken....looks like all the years in Batam made u reach Nirvana in the religion of batteries. Lol!

A good read unker!

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