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W124 Talk


W124beginner

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Thanks for the plasma link. I think I will skip after checking the website. If its not OE I don't think I will consider replacing it. I will just continue to stick to my original instrument cluster. Over the years I have changed a lot of wear and tear spare parts. Just glad and proud that it still retained the original modern classic look since day one. Cheerios.

If the lighting on your cluster is too dim, you may consider checking if the prisms are still in good condition, and replace with brighter amber LED bulbs. A replacement cluster housing in very good condition is also not expensive. Be sure not to use 5w bulbs in there, they will surely melt the prisms and damage them.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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  • 1 month later...

Eibach springs and Sachs shocks. 3 dot front, 2 dot rear. Still nice and comfy :-)

Hi there, what's the cost for your full set of shocks and springs ?

As I'm considering these H&R springs .... http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-R-29548-1-MB-E-Class-W124-200E-220E-230E-200D-Sport-Springs-45-55mm-/121327403670?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c3fad4296

Us$254 , shipping euro 35.90 ......almost 400 sgd Liao

For 200e 1989 4dr sedan

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Hi there, what's the cost for your full set of shocks and springs ?

As I'm considering these H&R springs .... http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-R-29548-1-MB-E-Class-W124-200E-220E-230E-200D-Sport-Springs-45-55mm-/121327403670?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c3fad4296

Us$254 , shipping euro 35.90 ......almost 400 sgd Liao

For 200e 1989 4dr sedan

I got the eibach pro-kit (same spec as the sportline) 30mm lower springs and sachs super touring shocks, from online, all in was less than 800 including shipping. But that was only because I wanted to match the shocks to the spring rates. If you want to go stock, all in probably 400 for shocks and springs. H&Rs are supposed to be fairly compliant, but with a 2-inch drop like what the link has, I have no clue.

 

Hi ppl,

200e auto 1989 ... When travelling at 90km/h ...rpm at 2500 , 95km/h rpm at 2700 ...100km/h to 105km/h ..rpm at almost 3k ...is this norm ...seems like kinda high rpm if constant travelling at this kinda speeds ?

The 200E had a 3.46 diff and the drive ratio was 1:1 for 4th gear, giving a 1:3.46 final drive ratio. meaning 34.6km/h per 1000rpm. so at 100km/h your tacho should read ~2900rpm.

 

You can get diffs from other 124s like the 260 or 300 with a 3.27 or even 3.06 rear diff, but you will lose out in low speed engine response and acceleration, which means you will find yourself stepping harder to keep up with the traffic at lower speeds. later models got around this by having 1st gear starts, wheras the earlier ones all start in 2nd gear. I'd only swap out the diff if I did almost all highway cruising. Then the instrument cluster also has to come out as the speedo takes reference from the gearbox speed, and is calibrated for a certain drive ratio.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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This might be a good compromise - http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-R-40556-1-MB-E-Class-W124-Sedan-Cup-Kit-Comfort-Suspension-Kit-30mm-/111336173519?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ec272fcf

 

gotta add 7% gst when it comes in, but other than that it should be pretty comfy. remember the spring pads can be changed out, a few guys I've seen have ones that are way too high. I think both H&R and Eibach have a table to calculate the correct spring pad for your car when using their kits. Should be pretty similar to the one from the MB electronic parts catalogue.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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This might be a good compromise - http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-R-40556-1-MB-E-Class-W124-Sedan-Cup-Kit-Comfort-Suspension-Kit-30mm-/111336173519?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ec272fcf

 

gotta add 7% gst when it comes in, but other than that it should be pretty comfy. remember the spring pads can be changed out, a few guys I've seen have ones that are way too high. I think both H&R and Eibach have a table to calculate the correct spring pad for your car when using their kits. Should be pretty similar to the one from the MB electronic parts catalogue.

You ah, poison poison, I also tempted liao...

But still waiting for your other poison first.

This one can wait slightly longer...

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try Tye Soon, Gallop, Min Hoe, Hup Soon Tat, Sing Tat or Surpass Auto.

 

Not necessarily in that order, not everyone has existing stock of everything. Most places you can order if you don't mind waiting a week or so.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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Yes I did go to gallop after trip to min ghee ... Bought a gearbox dipstick at gallop ... Asked for 8v ... Look different I said 8v again ... Salesman said same for 8v n 16v .... At workshop mechanic see n said not correct ... LL jus install anyway ... Still can insert push down , just the top clamp head can't use to lock it ....

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The thing about a lot of these cars is that a lot of places don't know that there is a difference between parts, even for 8v cars of different model years. I've seen guys with transmission swaps thinking that "w124 2.0 4 speed box, all the same". heck even the mechanics may not always know the difference. This holds true for all cars, as manufacturers often make small changes with each model year even though the car looks the same, and the part itself may look the same.

 

In your car, you can use the VIN and go to one of the stockists to verify what specific component you should be putting on as a replacement, not just any "8v part". This is of course assuming your car hasn't had lots of parts swapped from other models...

 

For your transmission, the easiest would be to put it up on a hoist, and to look at the transmission serial number. it is stamped on the left side, above the sump, and should start with 722.xxx. the xxx is model specific. with this in hand, you can compare with the VIN info to see if your gearbox is the same as what was originally fitted to your car, then you can be sure of always buying the correct parts. It might be a good idea to get a transmission dipstick that can lock down as foaming can occur in the fluid under some conditions and it may bubble out the dipstick hole, and onto the exhaust manifold.

 

The same goes for all other parts in the car. There is an online EPC website http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/cats/m.mycat?cat=mb&client=dr2000 which you can use to look for part numbers for your car, just put in your VIN to start. 

 

There's a regular meetup of W124/126 guys in the east side on Friday nights, lots of experience there to share, most are long time owners who have been through pretty much everything.. come on down if you are free for kopi!

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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Yes thank you I'm excited to meet up with you guys w124 owners ... Lots of things to learn about this ride.... Very happy with the ride so far just the fuel needle gauge is moving very fast ....

It's every Friday ? Will try to join in if time permits

It's most Fridays, anyone of course is free to drop in and la kopi.

http://www.w124-sg.com/2014/03/marshall-protocol-explanation-and.html starts pretty late and ends.. whenever. Quite often you can arrange for things like Idle Air-fuel ratio tuning, and do little diy stuff other than sit around and talk cock.

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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I guess this could be a question for anyone driving up.... if you have travel insurance, check if they have towing services.. I once had to go pick my friend and his wife up from NSH when his corolla broke down. 

 

Usually before I head up north, I will give the whole car a once over.. make sure all fluids are in good condition, brakes, tyres (including spare) and give the girl a bit of a tune up. Drive up at sensible speeds so as not to stress the car and the other occupants.

 

If yours is the 8V, I would recommend carrying a spare TSZ trigger box, fuses, fan belt and fuel pump relay, if you happen to have them. They are the things that could strand you but are really simple to replace. 

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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Survived the trip with just a bottle of water incase overheat and need to top up coolant water .... All went well ....jam at bke to custom 1hr 15min ... Night time ... Usual temp 78 .... Max it went to 85 ... I suppose the marker above 80 is 90 ? ...after clear custom drop back to 78

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Hmmm nsh only 8.4km/l, and only 120 till 140..

It's damn high lor...

Mine is (I remembered ard 10km/l, long time no go burn carbon liao), speed hmmm not speed limit la

Mine is 15" not really sure if 18" will really eat up so much..

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What width tyres are you on, and what is your tyre pressure?? rolling resistance plays a big part in highway fuel consumption. Maybe do a quick tune up - clean the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor, check the plugs and cables, and adjust the idle air-fuel ratio. After all that is done, go for a good 4 wheel alignment. Other things that will affect your FC over a long distance - the condition of your wheel bearings, differential etc etc.. take your time to work through them. I now average 8.2-8.4 driving around Singapore, which is ok I guess for my engine. Guys on the 2.0 can get 9+ in Singapore and over 11 on NSH.

 

*edit

p.s. the claimed factory performance is 13.9 / 11.2 / 9.2 (11.1) km/l ECE for 90/120/City. Real life figure more like 11.4-14.6 / 7.3-9.3 / 9.2-11.7 / 10.6 :extra-urban / city / highway / average combined

There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.

Henry A. Kissinger

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