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Anyone driving B class 2013 model??


LoneLyBy2

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  • 4 weeks later...

Happy CNY everyone..! a few days late.
 

Just hit 30,000Km++ on the W246 this week.

 

The "Check Brake Pad Wear" sign has greeted me. :)

 

Does anyone know if its true that you need to change the Disc Brake Rotors together with the Brake Pads when you change them?

 

My model comes with the ventilated Disc Brake Rotors. :(

 

 

Have a good week!

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Happy CNY everyone..! a few days late.

 

Just hit 30,000Km++ on the W246 this week.

 

The "Check Brake Pad Wear" sign has greeted me. :)

 

Does anyone know if its true that you need to change the Disc Brake Rotors together with the Brake Pads when you change them?

 

My model comes with the ventilated Disc Brake Rotors. :(

 

 

Have a good week!

 

The general advice found in this forum is to change the Disc Rotor once for every two brake pad change. In your case perhaps at 60k?

 

You may want to get an opinion from the workshop as well if the Disc Rotor is within the acceptable thickness range during this 30k brake pad change

 

Hope this helps

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  • 2 years later...

Dear Everyone,  I am new to this forum and like to share the experience of my wife B200 ( Nov 2013 collection ).   Whenever she drive the car out from our place, she needs to drive down the road ( which is a quite a downslope ).   The car give a very loud over-rev ( dragging the car at 1st gear ).   Somehow, this feeling is not good and there is nothing C&C can do about it.   In addition, she also experience "engine knocking" sound when she tried to push the pedal too hard.   Does anything has a similar experience as I am trying to understand whether this is common for B200.  I welcome feedback from fellow friends sharing their experience on this.  Regards,  JIT

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Going downhill at 1st gear is normal as the car is trying to slow down the vehicle. I believe this usually happens when the engine is cold as the car is in auto choke mode i.e. It's warming up the engine at higher revs for the 1st 2 min or so.

Hearing the engine knocks can mean only 1 thing....you are using a lower than recommended petrol grade. Try higher

RON 98 petrol.

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Dear Everyone, I am new to this forum and like to share the experience of my wife B200 ( Nov 2013 collection ). Whenever she drive the car out from our place, she needs to drive down the road ( which is a quite a downslope ). The car give a very loud over-rev ( dragging the car at 1st gear ). Somehow, this feeling is not good and there is nothing C&C can do about it. In addition, she also experience "engine knocking" sound when she tried to push the pedal too hard. Does anything has a similar experience as I am trying to understand whether this is common for B200. I welcome feedback from fellow friends sharing their experience on this. Regards, JIT

Hi Bro your wife same car as me and I also on Nov 2013 get it.. my car very smooth.. what kind of engine knocking sound... maybe I can help it.

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Sounds like you have a gear box valve issue which is common amongst B Classes. Try to change to C instead using S. For B and A class you cannot rev your car and stop immediately as the car usually chokes. Very common. High revs maybe dye to ecu resetting. I think in the sgmerc general thread there is a write up about resetting the ECU which you can DIY and it's effective. BClass uses CVT gear box so it's very durable and comfy to drive. Only issue is and u noticed this through my car after 100k milage the gear but x valve starts to give problem. Sometimes when you do ebrake you will see the front display "Transmission Issue sent to workshop". Don't panic!. Stop your car and restart. It should be OK then but if happens too frequent like in a day 3-4 times, then start to panic cos it's faulty. Usually cost about 3.5-4k repair outside. CNC about 7.5k. Both use originals.

Hi Bro your wife same car as me and I also on Nov 2013 get it.. my car very smooth.. what kind of engine knocking sound... maybe I can help it.

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Hi LoneLyBy2 - Thanks for your offer to help.  Maybe I can arrange to meet up with you and let you try driving the car .  Let you have a feel of the problem with the ride.   .

 

Hi mymercs - Good stuff you had shared.   I am interested to try the ECU reset which I was thinking this is standard process and C&C would have done it before.   In any case, I am interested to try it myself.   I was searching through the forum for the instruction you mentioned - can you confirm this is the link for the ECU reset.  - http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/4850-reset-ecutcu-steps-for-your-throttle-response/page-3?hl=%2Becu+%2Breset#entry170418.   

 

Thanks in advance to both for your help and contributions.  Regards,  

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Yes that is. The thread to reset the ECU. Now remember the BClass has a very fast (less than a second) tick sound so you'll have to do it in a very quiet environment. One more point set it using C gear if you want lesser checking drive. You should be able to feel the difference there after. Also point to note both of my BClasses have this issue, engine mounting and tension cables which have to be changed usually 60,000 - 80,000 and don't do this in CNC unless you feel like sharing money :-) try outside. PM me if you want recommendations. I kena alot of times with unreliable workshops and one of the was OptimaWerkz! They charged me almost 4k for a job that wasn't solved and when you send back they will tell you other problems. I have a good list of honest workshops and these are Mercs guru.

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Yes that is. The thread to reset the ECU. Now remember the BClass has a very fast (less than a second) tick sound so you'll have to do it in a very quiet environment. One more point set it using C gear if you want lesser checking drive. You should be able to feel the difference there after. Also point to note both of my BClasses have this issue, engine mounting and tension cables which have to be changed usually 60,000 - 80,000 and don't do this in CNC unless you feel like sharing money :-) try outside. PM me if you want recommendations. I kena alot of times with unreliable workshops and one of the was OptimaWerkz! They charged me almost 4k for a job that wasn't solved and when you send back they will tell you other problems. I have a good list of honest workshops and these are Mercs guru.

 

 

Thanks.   I just tried it.  I did the ECU reset and it works well for me and you are right on the tick sound.  I have not bring the car out for a spin yet.  I needed clarifications on this note - One more point set it using C gear... will take it offline with you.   Thanks again

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  • 3 weeks later...

Happy CNY everyone..! a few days late.

 

Just hit 30,000Km++ on the W246 this week.

 

The "Check Brake Pad Wear" sign has greeted me. :)

 

Does anyone know if its true that you need to change the Disc Brake Rotors together with the Brake Pads when you change them?

 

My model comes with the ventilated Disc Brake Rotors. :(

 

 

Have a good week!

 

I Change my front 2 disc and 4 brake pads at 50k.. My doesn't prop and sign only I feel got eeeeee.. sound i jiu change liao lor... Btw your disc got hole one or normal? Sport/chrome 

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  • 1 month later...

Sounds like you have a gear box valve issue which is common amongst B Classes. Try to change to C instead using S. For B and A class you cannot rev your car and stop immediately as the car usually chokes. Very common. High revs maybe dye to ecu resetting. I think in the sgmerc general thread there is a write up about resetting the ECU which you can DIY and it's effective. BClass uses CVT gear box so it's very durable and comfy to drive. Only issue is and u noticed this through my car after 100k milage the gear but x valve starts to give problem. Sometimes when you do ebrake you will see the front display "Transmission Issue sent to workshop". Don't panic!. Stop your car and restart. It should be OK then but if happens too frequent like in a day 3-4 times, then start to panic cos it's faulty. Usually cost about 3.5-4k repair outside. CNC about 7.5k. Both use originals.

Care to Intro workshop for B class .

New to this car and a lot of ppl cutting out throat

Thanks

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