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Maintenance cost for A180/200

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Hi all,

 

Considering A180/200 here.

Any upgraders from Jap/Kr car here?

Would like to hear from your experience.

 

Putting the down payment and monthly loan aside, what would be the montly "top up" for the A180/200 compared to say Corolla/Elentra?

 

Travel 50 to 70 KM per day.

Assuming service at agent in warranty, outside after 3 yrs

 

"Top up" including regular service, insurance, etc.

 

 

Thanks!

 

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I upgraded from Toyota to VW and finally to Merc.

 

After VW, i realised how badly Toyota is lagging behind in terms of being a driver-centric car. I liked my VW as the car feels "safer" and also cornering is shiok, and the door closes with a solid "thud".

 

This helped me to confirm that my next car will still be a continental.

 

i think your concern is valid, probably heard many stories (especially from doing asian makes workshop) that conti car in SG very expensive to upkeep, spare parts very hard to buy, reliability is an issue etc. Having heard all these before, i still take that plunge and I have never regretted.

 

IMO, the cost of upkeeping a merc, or conti in general, is not THAT expensive. The spark plugs still cost around the same price, the engine oil depends on your vanity (you can drive a vios and still use Mobil Gold), the rest of the parts, imo there are many shops in SG that can buy your own parts or know how to service a conti. Many of them can service Ferraris and Lamborghinis, so therefore those stories about spare parts and difficulty in servicing were all thrown out of my window. 

 

You are buying a Merc, everywhere in SG you can see a merc, you go to your HDB carpark you can count how many Mercs, logically the spares that workshops bring in will therefore not be like last time, where parts are rare and hence must ship from overseas. Mercs is known for reliability (many might beg to differ here, but every other brand maybe except Lexus I also got hear before problems) so nitty gritty parts that spoil will also likewise spoil in asian makes. 

 

so therefore if you think about "top-up" I cannot really quantify for you, for my Jetta and now A180, I will say I spend more on zhng-ing car nice nice than worry about this break or that spoil. The feel is different, the stability of a Merc is also different, how much (in terms of monetary) you "top-up" is proportionate to how much joy in driving a conti compared to a corolla or elantra. 

 

All that being said, I am not a Merc salesman, just someone who enjoys my car, no offence to any asian makes bros here. just my two cents in a very long post. 

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Please allow me to offer one other perspective based on personal experience. 

 

My folks have preferred driving contis for quite a long time (Jag, Peugeot, MBs..) I'm pretty sure they enjoyed the heightened sense of luxury etc but definitely not the repair bills and regularity of workshop visits especially with the Jag and Pug. The MBs have also enjoyed a good amount of time in various C&C workshops. 

 

Then in late 2000s they both upgraded to a Toyota and a Lexus. You will see why I have used the term upgraded and understand it soon enough.  The Lexus has hardly seen a nasty repair bill since day one and the Toyota Corolla is chugging along nicely too although fast approaching it's 10th year. 

 

The issue at hand is both have a habit of starting the car, driving off and usually applying heavy throttle when the automobile's systems have not reached optimal operating temperatures. They also have short distance commutes of under 5km typically after starting the car in the morning. My own conclusion is that Japanese makes in general are able to tolerate these ownership quirks - more so than the continental builds. 

 

Also something to bear in mind is that you're switching from a normally aspirated platform to a force inducted one. Typically heatsoak in the engine bay is your main enemy as it tends to break down rubber hoses / plastics quicker over time. Yeah so in a nutshell, you just need to keep a lookout for healthy engine oil levels and regular oil changes with high quality synthetic oils. No need to go crazy on short oil change intervals as quality oils also need time to break in to perform optimally. 

 

All the best in your search for your A klasse. 

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Thanks for your detailed replies.

 

Not intending to do much mod or race driving in Singapore. I'll gocart for that. Just want the control, comfort and safety

 

I can see the retail price difference between a Corrolla and A180, which can be budgeted before hand.

But not sure about the other expense difference..Do not want to be surprised by the maintance/repair bill.

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Among the contis, MB is among the lesser evil. Maintenance should not be much difference (except the price differences between the authorised distributors during 1st 3 years). That said, it is very much dependent on what you believe in and how you maintain the ride.

 

I used to drive a Honda and maintenance was not low because I am a strong believer of quality over price (value-for-money) so I used only Motul engine oil after the initial hunt for suitable EO for the Honda ride (and each EO tested is backed by laboratory's Used Oil Analysis report) and I insisted on only using Japan components, not those Thailand equivalents. 

 

Examples: 1. Transmission Fluid has Japan one and Thailand one which among the buddies who drove same car, we came to same conclusion where the transmission is not as smooth and lasting when using the Thailand one. 2. Original oil filter has Japan part and non-Japan part which has difference where Japan one comes with the O-ring seal while Thai one does not. I do not want to make assume of the internal of the oil filter since I have not section it up and look inside.

 

There are a few Contis which I will definitely avoid - Renault and Peugeot. These two are not only high on maintenance cost due to parts price, parts availability is also a pain and main importantly, it is not durable. So far no one among all those I know who drove these two makes have lasted more than 3 years when problems after problems keep coming up to the extend that they cannot get rid of it fast enough, even at a significant loss.

 

When I trade-in my Honda ride at 7 years old, it was still in such good condition that colleagues were commenting why my ride has not encounter this issue, that issue, replace this replace that when their rides (mix of Toyota, Mitsubishi and Mazda) have been through so much more major maintenance. My guiding principle is - never skim on proper periodic maintenance as the savings on the longer term is significantly more than the upfront smaller cost difference. I used to ride motorcycles and learnt a lot of good practices during those days.

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My A180 first service, Service Package A at CC

 

Labor to carry Short Test     $60

Labor tire rotate                   $16.82

Labor replace oil, oil filter    $120

Oil change                           $145.46 (shell helix 5.80l)

Oil Filter Element                $36.86

Sundry                                $5

 

Total                                    $384.14 (before GST)

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Oh dear... C&C use Shell Helix?

 

I better check if can use own engine oil. Shell Helix is overpriced for its performance (based on UOA).

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You can request C&C to use Mobil 1. I believe they charge attritional.

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Oh dear... C&C use Shell Helix?

 

I better check if can use own engine oil. Shell Helix is overpriced for its performance (based on UOA).

 

u can opt for mobil1 which cost slightly more for cnc servicing.

I tried both and dun really feel much difference.

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You can request C&C to use Mobil 1. I believe they charge attritional.

 

LOL. same time post

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Yours is much cheaper.

 

I did mine last month. Came up to $500!

 

they did engine flush, added fuel additive and topped up cleaning agent, on top of the ones you've listed.

 

 

I feel like a carrot....

 

 

My A180 first service, Service Package A at CC

 

Labor to carry Short Test     $60

Labor tire rotate                   $16.82

Labor replace oil, oil filter    $120

Oil change                           $145.46 (shell helix 5.80l)

Oil Filter Element                $36.86

Sundry                                $5

 

Total                                    $384.14 (before GST)

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u can opt for mobil1 which cost slightly more for cnc servicing.

I tried both and dun really feel much difference.

 

I read one of your earlier post, so I did not ask to change to Mobil

 

Yours is much cheaper.

 

I did mine last month. Came up to $500!

 

they did engine flush, added fuel additive and topped up cleaning agent, on top of the ones you've listed.

 

 

I feel like a carrot....

 

I specifically asked them not to do these items ... 

The only thing I am confident of doing is topping up washer liquid hahaha

I am not sure about the need for the "short Xentry test" that they did though ...

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I read one of your earlier post, so I did not ask to change to Mobil

I specifically asked them not to do these items ...

The only thing I am confident of doing is topping up washer liquid hahaha

I am not sure about the need for the "short Xentry test" that they did though ...

That's the only thing I top myself beside fuel as well. Haha

The xentry test is likely just routine software preventive diagnostics.

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Did Service A last Thurs, did tire realignment & asked for Nitrogen fill for tires.

 

Today, after driving 1km parked at Petrol Station, I checked the onboard TPMS & it shows all 4 tires have different kPa !!

 

Front 260   275

Rear 265   280

 

It gives me feeling they r going through motion ... I shld have checked on the spot when taking delivery of the car.

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u can opt for mobil1 which cost slightly more for cnc servicing.

I tried both and dun really feel much difference.

 

 

Between Shell Helix Ultra and Mobil 1, I will choose Shell Helix Ultra. I have done UOA (different car though) on both EOs and the Shell Helix Ultra still retain its properties longer (higher mileage) than Mobile 1.

 

I am incline to use Motul EO cause I have multiple UOA reports indicating its able to retain its properties till 12,000km or higher (previous car require servicing at 10,000km intervals so did not push as far as 15,000km).

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Did Service A last Thurs, did tire realignment & asked for Nitrogen fill for tires.

 

Today, after driving 1km parked at Petrol Station, I checked the onboard TPMS & it shows all 4 tires have different kPa !!

 

Front 260   275

Rear 265   280

 

It gives me feeling they r going through motion ... I shld have checked on the spot when taking delivery of the car.

 

Tire pressure may varies after a drive and weather conditions. Let it rest overnight and when first drive out in the morning, quickly check the pressure (TPMS requires to run a short while - think 4-5 mins, before it will show the readings). The variation should not be too much.

 

I have been running on Nitro (previous car as well as this current A180) since 1000km (when in early to switch to Nitro). The variations between tires should not be this wide under normal circumstances. But over time, it does since it is dependent on driving style (e.g. frequent hard cornering/bends) and road conditions.

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My A180 first service, Service Package A at CC

 

Labor to carry Short Test     $60

Labor tire rotate                   $16.82

Labor replace oil, oil filter    $120

Oil change                           $145.46 (shell helix 5.80l)

Oil Filter Element                $36.86

Sundry                                $5

 

Total                                    $384.14 (before GST)

This is cheaper than Ford

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This is cheaper than Ford

 

Which model of Ford? I believe cost also fluctuates according to the model.

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Which model of Ford? I believe cost also fluctuates according to the model.

Ford Smax basic servicing is $700 plus

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Tire pressure may varies after a drive and weather conditions. Let it rest overnight and when first drive out in the morning, quickly check the pressure (TPMS requires to run a short while - think 4-5 mins, before it will show the readings). The variation should not be too much.

 

I have been running on Nitro (previous car as well as this current A180) since 1000km (when in early to switch to Nitro). The variations between tires should not be this wide under normal circumstances. But over time, it does since it is dependent on driving style (e.g. frequent hard cornering/bends) and road conditions.

My TPMS sensors also vary by 15 between the highest and lowest corner though they are inflated to the same pressure by petrol station pump. I don't think they are designed for accuracy.

For spirited driving I find that pumping to 270 front 245 rear (cold) works best. Having 30 or more kpa between front and back makes the rear feel loose. 225/45R17 stock rims.

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My TPMS sensors also vary by 15 between the highest and lowest corner though they are inflated to the same pressure by petrol station pump. I don't think they are designed for accuracy.

For spirited driving I find that pumping to 270 front 245 rear (cold) works best. Having 30 or more kpa between front and back makes the rear feel loose. 225/45R17 stock rims.

 

for front 270, after driving probably 290 ... wonder what's limit for stock tires ?

 

your fuel econ really very good from other post ! 

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My TPMS sensors also vary by 15 between the highest and lowest corner though they are inflated to the same pressure by petrol station pump. I don't think they are designed for accuracy.

For spirited driving I find that pumping to 270 front 245 rear (cold) works best. Having 30 or more kpa between front and back makes the rear feel loose. 225/45R17 stock rims.

 

 

Thanks for sharing. I have been running on 250 front, 240 rear for approx. 6000km now. Will probably give your front pressure a try at next nitro-top up.

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Fuel Empty light up this morning. Shows this current tank has clocked 519.6km now. Minus distance from home to work place this morning (est 15km), I think it's decent, using the tire pressure shared above.

Upload photo later as it keeps getting error of size too big now uploading direct from phone.

 

post-7183-0-22632400-1469538760_thumb.jpg

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Hi . The original tyres the coned with the car is using air or nitro? . If nitro can I owned go petrol station and mix well air to get the recommended pressure ?

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What I know is C&C pumps nitrogen. But air is 70% nitrogen anyway. It's not going to make a huge difference. Just pump at petrol station - you will have to sooner or later....

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