My 90-91 W124 and some of its problem.

[Guest Countach]

Hello guys,

I found this forum a few weeks ago and thought I joined the fun. Didn't realise until further reads that you guys got regular meets and all. Might have to attend one of these meets!

So, I got a W124 off of my sis less than a year ago. She bought it from a car dealer friend which gave her a lemon of a car and spent as much as she bought the car for on repairs. The car got problems so long that I am inheriting the list of the minor ones which seems to be turning into big problems, darn!

I hope you guys got some suggestions on the problems I have below. What I also like to know if there are any very good, honest and reasonable workshop to go to. I am recommended to go to JB!?

Right now, I go to one which is recommended by another W124 owner but this owner is a fanatic and go to a dozen different workshops for different problems in his car which is mint condition. I don't have his kind of time to run around like that.

So far, I learn from this forum on where to get parts. Propel in Kranji and a few parts shop in town like Tye Soon.

I will use new parts as much as I can.

Ok, lately:

1. Aircon gone, read somewhere to check if its hose from coil come off. But have to pull the whole dashboard out? No tools or experiences to pull this off so, drove to the aircon shop, they checked gas leaks on all aircon vents. The shop said $550 to replace coil/condensor. Asked if they can check if hose that came off, they said "no, coil change, no need check.", I persist that if its actually the hose they said "no no, coil need change, not hose come out.". So, I been driving a couple of months without aircon now. I was told to change the compressor too coz its producing a little noise! But my aircon when its working, is very good and cool. Also, passenger side window never work so, no surprise when no one wants to take a lift in my car unless they sit behind and on very short trip.

2. CV joints noise, I didn't realised I drove this car for months with clicking and clunking noise from the rear axle area. I asked another workshop near my work place to see if they can tighten the CV boots, they said "no tighten, change new CV joint." I said if he can see if the boots are loose, they said "change all new CV joint, cheap cheap $500 plus installation, 2 side, new new one, no need check!" So, I declined and driving with the clicking sound and sometimes, loud clunking sound when going up small hill... I remember there's a shop that recon CV's that always advertise in the newspaper, can't remember which shop. So, recommended to change new or recon and where can I go to?

3. Suspension needs to change, ok, granted but clicking sound from suspension can be heard when car go over road bumps and stops after that. Hope changing the entire suspension will solve this.

4. This 1 month alone, radiator light come on twice and each time. I have to add about 1.5 litre of water. Something is not right here, hoses are new. My sis changed them just a year back! ......but the workshop she went to are all talks and full of poops!

5. Ah, the scary one! Just these few days. The engine is not quite easy to start in the cold anymore. But it will crank and start after I stepped on the accelerator a few times, the battery seems still strong and can turn the engine but there were no ignition.

On a one of the few crankings, there is always 1 time when it sounded like the battery is weak, usually second cranking. I have to step on the accelerator a few time to start the engine. Seems like the engine is starving for fuel on these start up.

And also once its started, engine vibrates very rough until I revved a few times to rid of that. And I uses the old car trick of revving the engine a few time before switching the engine off, this sort of allow easier starting of the engine in the morning. Strange!

I read in another thread someone got this similar problem but mine is when the car is parked for a long time, overnight and after work. What you guys recommended was to check OVP ($40), Ignition Module ($75) or check the idle control valve or fuel damper or fuel pump or fuel pump relay. Cool, but I don't have the owner's manual to know what is what in the engine bay. :shocked:

The car starts with little problem this morning. A bit rough until I accelerates.

The other problems are long but too silly to list them. I think all the rudder seals need to change, previous owners before my sis did horrible job in maintainance and probably go to seriously lousy workshops.

All window rubber seals are badly installed, side skirts missing from car, bumper screws untighten or lost, headlights is a joke coz I have to slam my door to make it work and its pointed up and down on each side and not straight ahead. I can adjust it on the W123 model but this car, I can't find anywhere to adjust the lights.

I also read that you guys strongly do not recommend to add any AM parts to 'boost' the power of this car.

What I plan was to stuff in those spark plug cable and CGI, I think its called CGI thingy that boost the sparks in the engine. I used to drive a Prelude for a few months before and the previous owner added this kinda stuff in the car and the car was a joy to zip around.

K&N, also read from here, I think, not needed but change to OEM paper one. Still feeling a bit itching about it.:becky:

Anything you guys did to increase the fun of this car too?

Thanks for reading, guys!

[Guest blackmercs]

Hmm i m sure you feel relieve after pouring out most of the issues here!! Unfortunately our W124 guru Kelvin went to retreat to a Fairyland for few days.

If possible come for the month end gtg, I m sure there are few W124 kakis here having same problem more or less. You guys can comes together & share notes to resolve the issues.

Anyway, congras on yr new ride!!

[Guest Countach]

blackmercs wrote:

Hmm i m sure you feel relieve after pouring out most of the issues here!! Unfortunately our W124 guru Kelvin went to retreat to a Fairyland for few days.

If possible come for the month end gtg, I m sure there are few W124 kakis here having same problem more or less. You guys can comes together & share notes to resolve the issues.

Anyway, congras on yr new ride!!

Hello sir,

Thank you! Its a new very old and still sturdy ride, kinda like the Millenium Falcon. I hope Kelvin can give me some advise when he returns.

I like to pop by one of the monthly meets. I certainly like to see what W124 owners did to their cars. I plan to restore and upgrade mine along the way.

I saw someone posted a sweet looking backlited instrument panel and can't find the thread anymore. I hope someone here can help too!

Thanks again!

[Guest benzw124]

Hi there,

Looks like you are in the same boat as me when I just got my car and just to let you know, you are in for a long ride. I am not trying to scare you but to put things in perspective. The car is 20 years old and has passed through numerous hands. Most of which towards the end couldnt have cared less about maintenance. Judging from the problems you listed, you need to budget around 3-4k for repairs at least. Start with the important ones and simple fixes before graduating to less urgent fixes to stagger the costs.

Okay so first thing would be the air con. How on earth do you drive without it??!?? Haha I'm afraid the mechanic is right on this one. The coil in the W124 and most Mercs in fact are the weakest part in the system mainly because they are all hidden behind the dash. Metal fatigue after years of expansion and contraction has caused it to leak and there is pretty much nothing you can do except to change it. $550 for changing the coil is a pretty good quote. The last time i did mine was $650 in total so I would say go for it. the coil itself is dirt cheap but labour cost a huge amount due to the amount of time required to strip and put everything back together.

I cant help you with the CV joints as mine are still fine. maybe you could try and get another mechanic for a second opinion and proceed from there. The cheapest fix i can think of would be to find a decent low mileage car from the scrap yard and get the part from that car.

For the suspension, do the shocks, engine and transmission mounts and ball joints together. They dont cost alot and you save on labour if you do it all at one shot. I did mine separately and it cost alot more as my mechanic had to strip the same parts over and over again to change them each time.

The disappearing water is a rather worrying concern and you should solve it immediately. It could mean signs of a head gasket leak or it could be a simple job like a leaking radiator or hose. Either way, get it checked asap. You did not mention about your running temperature but it should run around 80 most of the time and it should never go past 90. If you engine hits 100, please stop using the car immediately and let it cool or you will blow your head gasket soon. A top overhaul for the M102 engine costs around 1k but thats the worse case scenario. A new radiator should be in the 300 range and its not too bad considering that is lasts for 10-15 years.

The poor cold starting and roughness might be down to a few problems. I changed my fuel regulator, accumulator and OVP at once when I had it and it solved the problem. Expect to pay around 250 for the parts and labour. The OVP is a main problem for the w124s as most of them have fried by now. This job should be high priority on your list as well as you dont want to kill your starter motor which costs 600 bucks.

The price on the rubber seals for our car are insane. The window rubber is about 50 bucks/piece the felt strip is 110 and the rubber door seal is about 100 bucks as well. Multiply that by 4 plus the rear boot one and it adds up to quite abit.

Im not sure what you mean by side skirts but I assume you are talking about the jack hole covers? Im sure you can get them from propel if not eBay is your next best bet.

Try not to mess with spark plugs as the engine doesnt respond very well to it. Dont bother with air filters as well as Mercedes already designed a cold air intake into our cars already.

My advise is to stick to one good reliable workshop and follow through on the repairs. Try not to jump around as they would not know what has been done by the previous mechanics and would have to begin diagnosis all over again. Also try to keep in mind that our cars are old and do not have computers to tell mechanics what is wrong with them. Most of the time, the mechanic has to rely on years of experience and some trial and error to get the problems fixed. Also dont expect to repair everything at one shot. Do the urgent ones first and slowly budget for the rest.

PM me if you want my mechanics details. Hes pretty experience and reasonable and is located in town which would be more convenient for you if you work there.

[Guest Countach]

benzw124 wrote:

Hi there,

Looks like you are in the same boat as me when I just got my car and just to let you know, you are in for a long ride. I am not trying to scare you but to put things in perspective. The car is 20 years old and has passed through numerous hands. Most of which towards the end couldnt have cared less about maintenance. Judging from the problems you listed, you need to budget around 3-4k for repairs at least. Start with the important ones and simple fixes before graduating to less urgent fixes to stagger the costs.

Thanks for your reply, sir! I really appreciate the time taken to read and reply in great detail.

Oh yes, I do plan to restore and upgrade gradually as one shot full repair is a huge no-no for me at the moment. But my plan isn't for a total restoration to its former glory tho, just to a stage where I can rely on the car plus a little enhancement in the looks department.

Okay so first thing would be the air con. How on earth do you drive without it??!?? Haha I'm afraid the mechanic is right on this one. The coil in the W124 and most Mercs in fact are the weakest part in the system mainly because they are all hidden behind the dash. Metal fatigue after years of expansion and contraction has caused it to leak and there is pretty much nothing you can do except to change it. $550 for changing the coil is a pretty good quote. The last time i did mine was $650 in total so I would say go for it. the coil itself is dirt cheap but labour cost a huge amount due to the amount of time required to strip and put everything back together.

Ok, that's what I wanted to hear! LOL

Driving without aircon is not recommended!:becky: So... my hobbies have to wait now!

For the suspension, do the shocks, engine and transmission mounts and ball joints together. They dont cost alot and you save on labour if you do it all at one shot. I did mine separately and it cost alot more as my mechanic had to strip the same parts over and over again to change them each time.

Ok, note taken! When I took over the car and less than an hour of driving. The front right wheels came off and have to get the car towed. Its due to the ball joint which was changed at my sis's workshop but the steering still have a minute clarking sound.

The disappearing water is a rather worrying concern and you should solve it immediately. It could mean signs of a head gasket leak or it could be a simple job like a leaking radiator or hose. Either way, get it checked asap. You did not mention about your running temperature but it should run around 80 most of the time and it should never go past 90. If you engine hits 100, please stop using the car immediately and let it cool or you will blow your head gasket soon. A top overhaul for the M102 engine costs around 1k but thats the worse case scenario. A new radiator should be in the 300 range and its not too bad considering that is lasts for 10-15 years.

:shocked: Seriously, my sis's workshop should never be allowed to repair or touch cars legally! The workshop told her the temperature is NORMAL at 100 and she drove it like that for a long while, its her second car which she drove on and off and usually parked at home.

When I took over the car, most of the piping's done as they look pretty new-ish to me. But aircon fan never works so, I took it to a workshop recommended to me by another long time owner of the same model whom I lost contact now and it took me just $25 to change the relay but the aircon fan is constantly on, with or without the aircon on now.

That sort of take care of the temperature and its is usually below 80, with aircon on. But I did have a 1 time incident during a very hot day, I left the car engine at idle and went to buy some stuff, in some 5 minutes, the temperature raised to nearly 100 with aircon on. Maybe that day were seriously hot? But this problem didn't come back.

Now, without aircon. The temperature is the same as with aircon. Just below 80. But water starts disappearing in 2 weeks and I just top up yesterday and checked today, the water level already went down to 2/3 on the plastic tank.

Ah shoot, I better start packing up the stuff inside the car to ready it for workshop visit.

The poor cold starting and roughness might be down to a few problems. I changed my fuel regulator, accumulator and OVP at once when I had it and it solved the problem. Expect to pay around 250 for the parts and labour. The OVP is a main problem for the w124s as most of them have fried by now. This job should be high priority on your list as well as you dont want to kill your starter motor which costs 600 bucks.

Noted! I shall have this check along with the water problem.

The price on the rubber seals for our car are insane. The window rubber is about 50 bucks/piece the felt strip is 110 and the rubber door seal is about 100 bucks as well. Multiply that by 4 plus the rear boot one and it adds up to quite abit.

Ah! Thanks! I like to have prices listed so this is a good starting point for me when I get the parts. The front and rear windscreen rubber seals also worries me as I doubt its holding on at all, I can easily push it and it go inside the gaps.

Im not sure what you mean by side skirts but I assume you are talking about the jack hole covers? Im sure you can get them from propel if not eBay is your next best bet.

This is embarrassing! I thought this car have a plastic side skirts where the jack holes are? Didn't know there are just plastics covers but my sides really looked botah compared to any other same model I seen on the road and very unsightly! I hope I can find a set of pretty body kit in Bangkok as this model is still popular there.

Try not to mess with spark plugs as the engine doesnt respond very well to it. Dont bother with air filters as well as Mercedes already designed a cold air intake into our cars already.

Ok, points taken! OEM paper filter and don't screw around with the ah, CDI, not CGI!:becky: Those CDI which enhance the voltage in the sparks. Thought those might make this car sweeter to drive. Too bad the 260 engine is 6 cylinder!

My advise is to stick to one good reliable workshop and follow through on the repairs. Try not to jump around as they would not know what has been done by the previous mechanics and would have to begin diagnosis all over again. Also try to keep in mind that our cars are old and do not have computers to tell mechanics what is wrong with them. Most of the time, the mechanic has to rely on years of experience and some trial and error to get the problems fixed. Also dont expect to repair everything at one shot. Do the urgent ones first and slowly budget for the rest.

The workshop I went to once are constantly filled with cars and its in Sin Ming. It seems like a good workshop as they work on higher end cars..., I know the price is cheaper than my sis's lousy workshop which she also don't go to now. But this workshop is never free and honestly, I prefer not to have my cars in any workshop for too long. I feel so handicapped without a car!:becky:

PM me if you want my mechanics details. Hes pretty experience and reasonable and is located in town which would be more convenient for you if you work there.

That sounds good! Shooting you a PM tomorrow, its 3am now and only 4 hours to sleep!

Thanks so much for your time and patience there! I really appreciate it very much, sir!

[Guest mushigen]

Countach,

I have owned my W124 for a few days, but have surfed the internet extensively to research this car.

As mentioned by benzw124, you need to find the cause of losing coolant.

As for your other problems, I wouldn't know where to start from if I were you. Sounds like you have your hands full. It's rather sad not being able to enjoy the W124 as it should be. Maybe you could go to benzw124's mechanic to ask him to do a check and confirm what needs to be repaired first (safety issue).

My '93 headlights can be adjusted. In fact, one of them was pointing to the sky when I first took over the car. Adjusted it and now it's OK although the "throw" is not up to my expectation. Not sure if yours are the same as mine. If you need the PDF format of owner's manual, you can search for it online. Alternatively, I can email you.

[Guest benzw124]

Hi,

Just to add on abit and make myself more clear about the cooling system. You can still drive it at 100 but just not for very long and your gasket will definitely be destroyed if the engine hits 120. There is a very primitive computer in the car that retards the timing or fuel once the temperature hits 100 or so which reduces the power of the car significantly which is why I recommend you to not drive the car once it hits 100 for long.

Wiring the fan to be turned on permanently is a good temp fix but it is extremely loud and quite irritating. I did it on my 190E as it had cooling issues as well that i could never solve. in fact I had 3 fans running at one shot so anyone could hear it from a mile away. The cooling system is rather basic and the parts that fail the most are the engine fan viscous clutch and thermostat. It might also be a good idea to change the radiator as well because they do get clogged up over the years and are just not very efficient anymore.

[Guest Countach]

mushigen wrote:

Countach,

I have owned my W124 for a few days, but have surfed the internet extensively to research this car.

As mentioned by benzw124, you need to find the cause of losing coolant.

As for your other problems, I wouldn't know where to start from if I were you. Sounds like you have your hands full. It's rather sad not being able to enjoy the W124 as it should be. Maybe you could go to benzw124's mechanic to ask him to do a check and confirm what needs to be repaired first (safety issue).

My '93 headlights can be adjusted. In fact, one of them was pointing to the sky when I first took over the car. Adjusted it and now it's OK although the "throw" is not up to my expectation. Not sure if yours are the same as mine. If you need the PDF format of owner's manual, you can search for it online. Alternatively, I can email you.

Car was fine until recently when things starts to come 1 by 1. Honestly, I look forward to solving these and with the helps I am getting from you guys. I am just being pointed in the right direction which I am most thankful!

Honestly, I was looking at bodykit before all the small problem starts pooping up so, that and the 17" will have to wait.

You got PM, sir!

benzw124 wrote:

Hi,

Just to add on abit and make myself more clear about the cooling system. You can still drive it at 100 but just not for very long and your gasket will definitely be destroyed if the engine hits 120. There is a very primitive computer in the car that retards the timing or fuel once the temperature hits 100 or so which reduces the power of the car significantly which is why I recommend you to not drive the car once it hits 100 for long.

Wiring the fan to be turned on permanently is a good temp fix but it is extremely loud and quite irritating. I did it on my 190E as it had cooling issues as well that i could never solve. in fact I had 3 fans running at one shot so anyone could hear it from a mile away. The cooling system is rather basic and the parts that fail the most are the engine fan viscous clutch and thermostat. It might also be a good idea to change the radiator as well because they do get clogged up over the years and are just not very efficient anymore.

Got it, sir! Thanks again for the info, all are most useful! So far, the temperature is constant below 80 and I will feel uneasy whenever its goes slightly above 80, usually during taffic jam but its quite good most of the time.

The fan is noisy and irritating and once the aircon is on, accelerating the car takes a little effort and patience which the cars behind usually lacks! I hope the aircon guy will know how to fix it.

Good thing the radiator is very new, still got the sticker on it and I think its the newest part in the engine bay.

Thanks guys, I really appreciates your inputs and time!

I don't know how the mechanic is going to check where the water is leaking but I hope they can pinpoint the problem area. I am making arrangement for workshop. May the Force be with me!

[Guest benzw124]

Hi there,

Considering how much water you a losing every week, I would think it would be pretty easy to find the source. The mechanics will let your car run to operating temperature and let the system pressurize. They will then jack it up to find the leak. It could be a simple issue like a cracked pipe or the plastic expansion tank. It could be something more severe like a cracked radiator or worn out water pump and worse case scenario is a blown head gasket which consumes water.

Getting the W124 to move is an art I would say. Its quite slow off the line but there is still power when you need it. The car was designed for relaxed driving so no traffic light sprints there!

I also recommend you to change your radiator cap since your car is MY1990. The newer style ones have better pressure capabilities with an uprated spring and larger rubber. Besides, they only cost 7 bucks and its cheap insurance.

BTW PM sent!

[Guest Countach]

benzw124 wrote:

Hi there,

Considering how much water you a losing every week, I would think it would be pretty easy to find the source. The mechanics will let your car run to operating temperature and let the system pressurize. They will then jack it up to find the leak. It could be a simple issue like a cracked pipe or the plastic expansion tank. It could be something more severe like a cracked radiator or worn out water pump and worse case scenario is a blown head gasket which consumes water.

Noted and thanks very much, sir! I hope its a simple case of just a leaky pipe.

Getting the W124 to move is an art I would say. Its quite slow off the line but there is still power when you need it. The car was designed for relaxed driving so no traffic light sprints there!

LOL, I have to and always remember that!

I also recommend you to change your radiator cap since your car is MY1990. The newer style ones have better pressure capabilities with an uprated spring and larger rubber. Besides, they only cost 7 bucks and its cheap insurance.

BTW PM sent!

That is another new bit of info for me, thanks! I always thought they are all the same. Think I will pop into Tye Soon sooner than expected. I need a new pump for the wipe and dipstick anyway. Thanks for the info on PM!:becky:

[keltanky]

answer in green

Hello guys,

I found this forum a few weeks ago and thought I joined the fun. Didn't realise until further reads that you guys got regular meets and all. Might have to attend one of these meets!

So, I got a W124 off of my sis less than a year ago. She bought it from a car dealer friend which gave her a lemon of a car and spent as much as she bought the car for on repairs. The car got problems so long that I am inheriting the list of the minor ones which seems to be turning into big problems, darn!

I hope you guys got some suggestions on the problems I have below. What I also like to know if there are any very good, honest and reasonable workshop to go to. I am recommended to go to JB!? will pm you if need any recommended workshop if dun want cowboy town

Right now, I go to one which is recommended by another W124 owner but this owner is a fanatic and go to a dozen different workshops for different problems in his car which is mint condition. I don't have his kind of time to run around like that.

So far, I learn from this forum on where to get parts. Propel in Kranji and a few parts shop in town like Tye Soon.

I will use new parts as much as I can.

Ok, lately:

1. Aircon gone, read somewhere to check if its hose from coil come off. But have to pull the whole dashboard out? No tools or experiences to pull this off so, drove to the aircon shop, they checked gas leaks on all aircon vents. The shop said $550 to replace coil/condensor. Asked if they can check if hose that came off, they said "no, coil change, no need check.", I persist that if its actually the hose they said "no no, coil need change, not hose come out.". So, I been driving a couple of months without aircon now. I was told to change the compressor too coz its producing a little noise! But my aircon when its working, is very good and cool. Also, passenger side window never work so, no surprise when no one wants to take a lift in my car unless they sit behind and on very short trip.

Compressor faulty?? or relay??

2. CV joints noise, I didn't realised I drove this car for months with clicking and clunking noise from the rear axle area. I asked another workshop near my work place to see if they can tighten the CV boots, they said "no tighten, change new CV joint." I said if he can see if the boots are loose, they said "change all new CV joint, cheap cheap $500 plus installation, 2 side, new new one, no need check!" So, I declined and driving with the clicking sound and sometimes, loud clunking sound when going up small hill... I remember there's a shop that recon CV's that always advertise in the newspaper, can't remember which shop. So, recommended to change new or recon and where can I go to?

hmmmm

3. Suspension needs to change, ok, granted but clicking sound from suspension can be heard when car go over road bumps and stops after that. Hope changing the entire suspension will solve this.

tie rod joints??

4. This 1 month alone, radiator light come on twice and each time. I have to add about 1.5 litre of water. Something is not right here, hoses are new. My sis changed them just a year back! ......but the workshop she went to are all talks and full of poops!

5. Ah, the scary one! Just these few days. The engine is not quite easy to start in the cold anymore. But it will crank and start after I stepped on the accelerator a few times, the battery seems still strong and can turn the engine but there were no ignition.

this i kena before, change starter ok liao!!

On a one of the few crankings, there is always 1 time when it sounded like the battery is weak, usually second cranking. I have to step on the accelerator a few time to start the engine. Seems like the engine is starving for fuel on these start up.

And also once its started, engine vibrates very rough until I revved a few times to rid of that. And I uses the old car trick of revving the engine a few time before switching the engine off, this sort of allow easier starting of the engine in the morning. Strange!

I read in another thread someone got this similar problem but mine is when the car is parked for a long time, overnight and after work. What you guys recommended was to check OVP ($40), Ignition Module ($75) or check the idle control valve or fuel damper or fuel pump or fuel pump relay. Cool, but I don't have the owner's manual to know what is what in the engine bay. :shocked:

The car starts with little problem this morning. A bit rough until I accelerates.

starter?? or fuel pump?

The other problems are long but too silly to list them. I think all the rudder seals need to change, previous owners before my sis did horrible job in maintainance and probably go to seriously lousy workshops.

All window rubber seals are badly installed, side skirts missing from car, bumper screws untighten or lost, headlights is a joke coz I have to slam my door to make it work and its pointed up and down on each side and not straight ahead. I can adjust it on the W123 model but this car, I can't find anywhere to adjust the lights.

I also read that you guys strongly do not recommend to add any AM parts to 'boost' the power of this car.

What I plan was to stuff in those spark plug cable and CGI, I think its called CGI thingy that boost the sparks in the engine. I used to drive a Prelude for a few months before and the previous owner added this kinda stuff in the car and the car was a joy to zip around.

K&N, also read from here, I think, not needed but change to OEM paper one. Still feeling a bit itching about it.:becky:

K&N , well i only just a convert, and can say good! FC seems better!!

Anything you guys did to increase the fun of this car too?

Thanks for reading, guys!

[Guest mushigen]

Kel,

could you PM me the price of the K&N and the place you got it from?

[keltanky]

mushigen wrote:

Kel,

could you PM me the price of the K&N and the place you got it from?

err I got it foc. my mech gave it foc to me for my birthday present. :becky:

[Guest Countach]

Hello Kelvin,

Thanks for your reply!

Today, I went to a workshop recommended by Benzw124 in Newton Circle. I got a few recommendations but I went with this one because its eaiser for me.

The missing coolant, they cannot locate where the water gone to so, tighten everything and KIV.

Starting problem, the mechanic did said starter but I will ask them to check the fuel pump.

K&N, ok, will go this route but what is FC?

And lastly, I lurked here months back and am not sure if you are the one who posted a photo of a backlited instrument panel? Which is awesome! I also remember something like $180 for it? I can't find the thread anymore, if you are the one who posted that. Can you kindly post it here, please?

Thank you!

[keltanky]

Countach wrote:

Hello Kelvin,

Thanks for your reply!

Today, I went to a workshop recommended by Benzw124 in Newton Circle. I got a few recommendations but I went with this one because its eaiser for me.

The missing coolant, they cannot locate where the water gone to so, tighten everything and KIV.

Starting problem, the mechanic did said starter but I will ask them to check the fuel pump.

K&N, ok, will go this route but what is FC?

And lastly, I lurked here months back and am not sure if you are the one who posted a photo of a backlited instrument panel? Which is awesome! I also remember something like $180 for it? I can't find the thread anymore, if you are the one who posted that. Can you kindly post it here, please?

Thank you!

if you looking for the instrument panel, go to Jurong Stamford tyre, look for Ah-kim, bare in mind, must tell them, yours mazx speed dial, if not they will just do the 240Km/h!

mileage currently still the same as last time, half tank 250KM, but this time i always in the 45 min jam to my workplace lor...last time different jobs no jam, always take 20 mins to work in highways only... now both ways to and fo each 45 mins jam stop go traffic, so i would say the FC is damn good!

i did try once with highways running (heehee illegal speeds:whistle:) around, i got 290KM for half tank. :bounce:

not sure of others, I would not use coolant :whistle:, just use distill water.. as coolant is acidic will eat up the radiator panels regardless of your dilude

also it may be me only :Cry: , i always get better FC with 250psi pumped tyres all round.

[Guest Countach]

if you looking for the instrument panel, go to Jurong Stamford tyre, look for Ah-kim, bare in mind, must tell them, yours mazx speed dial, if not they will just do the 240Km/h!

Ok, thanks! Wah, so far away! I will see what else for this car that I need to go to Jurong for and get a few things done at same day! I think its like 7-8 years since I go to Jurong!

mileage currently still the same as last time, half tank 250KM, but this time i always in the 45 min jam to my workplace lor...last time different jobs no jam, always take 20 mins to work in highways only... now both ways to and fo each 45 mins jam stop go traffic, so i would say the FC is damn good!

i did try once with highways running (heehee illegal speeds:whistle:) around, i got 290KM for half tank. :bounce:

FC-Fuel Consumption!!! Got it! LOL Since I got the car, dunno what speed I am always traveling coz the speedo's not working. Getting it repaired tomorrow.

not sure of others, I would not use coolant :whistle:, just use distill water.. as coolant is acidic will eat up the radiator panels regardless of your dilude

also it may be me only :Cry: , i always get better FC with 250psi pumped tyres all round.

I think you are spot on regarding this matter! I've been forgetting to get a bottle of coolant everytime I go to the petrol kiosk and now that you mentioned this. I think I will leave that out altogether. Since I took over the car, the water in the tank are always plain and do not have excessive rusty residues or colour in it at all! So, one of the few times that less is actually good!:becky:

Thank you very much for replying!

[Guest Countach]

keltanky wrote:

if you looking for the instrument panel, go to Jurong Stamford tyre, look for Ah-kim, bare in mind, must tell them, yours mazx speed dial, if not they will just do the 240Km/h!

I called them but Ah Kim no longer working there and his colleagues said there is no such items available.

Erm.., any idea where else can get this item? Thanks!

[Guest Countach]

I want to have all the issues in my car to be repaired or at least most of it but only managed to solved the minor problems.

My car behave so nicely that the workshop cannot find fault with the cold start issue and starts on cold without any hiccup and on the single crank. The mechanic purposely left the car untouch overnight to check this matter. Nothing!:shocked:

The loud clunking sound on the rear of the car also refused to show itself as mechanic checked the CV joints etc to find everything intact and clean. And when I drove back to work, the sound returns but in a very soft clicking noise but disappear again.

The coolant also not showing where its disappearing to. The mechanic tighten all the pipes and KIV this matter. I hope its just the darn pipes. Was advise if coolant go AWOL again and no sign everywhere. Have to do top overhaul?

Have my speedo working again but at lower speed, the needle is jumpy. Mechanic told me its the dail itself needs to be replace. Any idea if this is costly?

Arranging for coil/compressor change tomorrow, can't wait to have aircon in my car again! Compressor, IMO, still good but only have some noise but the aircon guy said its going gone. Still considering! I was quoted $550 for the coil with installation and $500 for compressor without installation charges. Anyone got better quotes elsewhere, do let me know.

Getting the shocks next week but still waiting for reply for quotes for the H&R springs from Benzline.

[Guest Countach]

Went to change my coil (copper or is it brass version) and the aircon is now back on, after 3 months!

BUT, I was only momentarily happy because the engine sounds weird now.

There is a whirling noise in the engine.

The compressor cutting off and on within minutes and also have that whirling noise.

Engine temperature increases to 90 at traffic jam.

Engine is rough.

This is really getting into me!

[Guest benzw124]

Hi there,

I have not experienced such a problem before so I dont think I am in a position to advise. However it does sound like a compressor on its last legs. As for engine temperature, if it stays at 90 during a long traffic jam and with the air con turned on, it is acceptable. However, do keep an eye on it and make sure it doesnt rise much further than that.

As for the jumpy needle in your speedo its usually a problem with the cable rather than the guage. Most people tend to pull the cluster out without first loosening the speedo cable from the transmission or at least the steering column to replace the bulbs. Over time, the cable stretches which results in the bouncy needle at lower speeds. I would advise you to change all your lights first before changing the speedo cable as repeated pulling on it will just cause it to bounce again. Its a $50 part if im not wrong and fitment doesnt cost much more. I will be changing mine soon as well as the ticking noises coming from it is irritating the hell out of me now.

[Guest Countach]

Hi there,

I have not experienced such a problem before so I dont think I am in a position to advise. However it does sound like a compressor on its last legs. As for engine temperature, if it stays at 90 during a long traffic jam and with the air con turned on, it is acceptable. However, do keep an eye on it and make sure it doesnt rise much further than that.

Thanks for writting, sir!

The aircon guy told me he fixed the compressor by oiling and tightening whatever and its good to go for a long more while. The engine is less busy today compared to yesterday and also less noisy... still monitoring.

I let the engine run for a long while in park but it also seems to stop at 90... but I am also a little frighten to let it run longer to see if it could go any higher. I remember with aircon on (before it broke down 3 months back), its slightly lower than 80 and it sticks there but if it goes up, its just so very little.

As for the jumpy needle in your speedo its usually a problem with the cable rather than the guage. Most people tend to pull the cluster out without first loosening the speedo cable from the transmission or at least the steering column to replace the bulbs. Over time, the cable stretches which results in the bouncy needle at lower speeds. I would advise you to change all your lights first before changing the speedo cable as repeated pulling on it will just cause it to bounce again. Its a $50 part if im not wrong and fitment doesnt cost much more. I will be changing mine soon as well as the ticking noises coming from it is irritating the hell out of me now.

I wanted to change the instrument panel to those EL illuminated type but called the shop and they no longer offering such product, darn! I was so looking forward to that as it will be far brighter than stock.

As for changing the light bulbs, love to, really as they are pretty dim. Even after the aircon guy changed the bulbs as a service for me already but its still dim for my liking.

Seems like I have to add speedo cables to my list of parts to buy. I am heading down to Ah Kee tomorrow morning to tune the engine as the tuning done few days ago was without the aircon working.

[Guest Countach]

Hello guys,

I got a new bit of a problem!

Just before the CNY, the gear started to feel really sluggish and by evening, I was high revving but the car wasn't going anywhere fast. I had to limp the car home. Reversing the car has about the same effect, high rev to reverse on slope to get it to move but on flat it seems a bit more eager than it should be.

I read somewhere this is due to the kick down? I feared it could be a costly gearbox overhaul. Anyone experienced this before? Hope to hear from you soon! Thanks in advance!

[Guest kepiting1sg]

IMHO think your gearbox need an overhaul.

Some members go over the causeway for lesser $$$.

Hope some W124 members can chip in their recommendations for gear box overhaul.

[Guest Countach]

Seems like it, hoping its not! Dammit, there goes $1500-2000!

Can't go JB because car has to be towed but I did remember a member here having a great experience in a known JB workshop there!

Thanks, K!