Advice needed for my 1993 W124 200E

[Guest mushigen]

Hello guys,

As posted in the "Bar" section, I just got my W124 yesterday and I will greatly appreciate some advice. The previous owner paid $6500 in Oct last year to "supply and to complete overhaul engine" - as mentioned in receipt. I will ask for a complete list of parts changed from the w/shop.

1) Running aircon on EC mode - makes the aircon significantly less cold especially when you just get into your hot parked car. Will it make a lot of difference in FC?

2) Fuel gauge: after I topped up full tank (nozzle auto stopped), the needle just went up to about 1mm *below* the full mark. In other cars, the needle will overshoot the full mark. Is it normal?

3) When driving, there is a soft humming sound which grows louder as the engine rpm increases (seems to come from centre console). It sounds like what we hear in an aeroplane when the plane is taxing the runway. It is not irritating and if you don't listen well, you may miss it. Is it normal?

4) There is a "cricket" somewhere in the aircon console - very difficult to pinpoint. Getting slightly annoying. Anyone has this experience? Where should I start searching for the "cricket"?

5) The boot area becomes rather warm and the boot "floor" is warmer to the touch. I keep my exercise gear and isotonic drinks in the boot and I don't think the heat is good for them. Is this the result of having a drive shaft nearby?

6) Brakes: when reversing, the braking power is greatly diminished compared to when I'm driving forward. Is this normal? Certainly didn't have this experience in the cars I've driven before.

7) Backlight for instrument clusters is a little dim (set to max brightness liao). Will changing of the bulbs help or is it normal? What size bulbs do I buy? Can I get the bulbs at the stockists listed here?

8) Lighting for gear position indicator: mine has no light at all, making me struggle to see the exact gear postion - not used to the gated type of gear lever. Is it caused by blown bulb? If so, can someone tell me the bulb size? I already saw vid on youtube on how to change the bulb.

9) RR power window is dead. No click, no sound when switches at driver and door are pressed. Before I start dismantling the door trim, can someone tell me how to trouble shoot whether it's caused by dead motor, or the "arm" ?

10) Wiper has no telescopic function - it just wipes in a perfect semi circle. Today I tried to lube the assembly but the damn cover cannot be prised open with screw drivers (the online tutorial makes it look so easy). Tried very hard, ended up leaving a series of "dents" on the edge of the cover. Anyone has better idea on how to open it?

11) Washer pump does not work. No sound from the pump. I removed the pump and it looks old for an 18-yr-old. Will get a new pump and try. Or should I check the relay and btw, where is the relay?

12) When driving off, the doors don't automatically lock. How to program the doors to lock? My car does not come with alarm system. Will frequent locking/unlocking cause premature wearing out of the vacuum pod of the central locking system?

13) Most importantly:

I was given two keys which have square plastic part. No remote unlock/lock was given to me and the previous 4th owner does not have it too.

Key A: only fits the ignition lock.

Key B: fits the driver's door, glove compartment and the boot lid (I had to use lots of WD40 to get the key to work on boot lock as it would not turn at all initially).

None of the keys fit the passenger door - even after trying with lots of WD40.

Questions:

i) can I change the ignition lock so that it uses Key B (don't like to carry two keys)? If so, how and where to go about doing it?

ii) where can I duplicate/buy a spare key?

iii) can I change/modify the lock of passenger door so that it accepts Key B?

Sorry for the long list of questions. Maybe I should break them up in a few postings? Any advice will be appreciated. Will try to attend the La Kopi session but it seems I may not be able to make it.

Thank you!

[keltanky]

better drop by at la kopi session, I will assist you.

[Guest desmondtoo]

Thats a pretty long list...Yes, please join us for the next la kopi session. Bro Keltanky will show you the 'light'...:mod:

[Guest mushigen]

Will try to make it to the kopi session, but looking at my schedule, I most likely will not be able to attend.

I have one very important question:

The SRS indicator on the dash does not light up when I turn my ignition key to the last slot (engine not started). What could be wrong?

I am hoping it is a blown bulb, and not as a result of one of the owners removing the bulb before selling off the vehicle (to hide SRS problem).

Sigh, will need to remove the instrument cluster to check.

[Guest Maniac]

Sorry to hear of your problems. I have a 1995 W124, so may have similar electronics to you. Most of my electricals are in order. Perhaps you just need to check whether the fuses have blown as well.

As for the bulbs behind the instrument cluster, one would expect some dust to accumulate after 18 years! This would be partly to blame for the low brightness. Sometimes, it could be that the contact of the dimmer need to be cleaned. Try turning the knob clockwise and anti clockwise a few times and see if it helps.

[Guest mushigen]

My problems appear to be numerous because of the long list. Actually, given the age of the vehicle, it is in an excellent condition. Not perfect, just excellent.

I'm sure once I get these small problems solved, I'll enjoy it for many years to come. So far, none of my cars have been with me for more than 4 years as I got bored with them pretty soon.

[Guest wJaaay]

Hi there,

My dad owned a 1993 200E 16valve a while back.

His didnt came with remote lock/alarm too. needed to install a third party remote lock. but the remote lock can be wired and programmed to central lock when u tap on the brake.

however because there is no unlock button on the console. he needed to open the driver side door while inside to allow passenger to enter from outside. btw the original keys can both open the door, boot, glove box and start the engine. not sure whats wrong with your thou..

The instrument cluster wasnt as bright too (turned the nob to max). prolly due to age?

Hope you sort out your car soon! Its a tank that car.. bodywork super solid.

[Guest mushigen]

wJaaay,

Thank you for sharing. You raised a very good point about not able to unlock the car from inside using a switch. Imagine having to open the driver's door just to allow others to get in when you pick them up - and the driver's door has to be wide open in order for the driver to be able to slam it to properly close it - yes, it's more solid compared to my previous VW.

My ignition barrel has been changed before. Actually, I like the car so much that all the "problems" don't bother me much - except the SRS check-light. In fact, the problems kind of excite me because they allow me to slowly get to know my ride better, and I know there are always help available when they become too big for me to DIY.

I actually achieved a 20-year-old dream: A school friend ferried me in his father's W123 about 20 years ago. I fell in love with that car and have been harbouring a dream of owning one. Imagine having admired each passing W123 and W124 for that long. As with all would-be owners of W124, the cost of maintaining it and the pitfalls of owning such an old ride did scare me from getting one at first.

I've owned my ride for a few days. Already I can see that I no longer drive as fast as I used to do. Now, I keep to the left lane (or centre, if I'm on expressway), driving according to the flow of the traffic and enjoying every moment of it - from the feedback of the big steering wheel, to how the car seems to communicate with me and at the same time trying to find out where the "cricket" is hiding.

I only have one regret: I regret not buying a W124 earlier

[Guest blackmercs]

Wow u really love this car so much so that u ignore all it weakness!! Clap clap!!

[Guest Gan]

mushigen wrote:

Hello guys,

As posted in the "Bar" section, I just got my W124 yesterday and I will greatly appreciate some advice. The previous owner paid $6500 in Oct last year to "supply and to complete overhaul engine" - as mentioned in receipt. I will ask for a complete list of parts changed from the w/shop.

1) Running aircon on EC mode - makes the aircon significantly less cold especially when you just get into your hot parked car. Will it make a lot of difference in FC?

wow a long list ..

The EC mode ...... basically The EC is .... Economy Mode ...

The Air Con Compressor will CUT-OFF .....

The System was just Running At BLOWER mode @ FAN mode only ...

2) Fuel gauge: after I topped up full tank (nozzle auto stopped), the needle just went up to about 1mm *below* the full mark. In other cars, the needle will overshoot the full mark. Is it normal?

Most probably the in-tank FUEL FLOAT was NOT functioning fully ...

the FUEL GAUGE basically was reading the FLOAT resistance ..

3) When driving, there is a soft humming sound which grows louder as the engine rpm increases (seems to come from centre console). It sounds like what we hear in an aeroplane when the plane is taxing the runway. It is not irritating and if you don't listen well, you may miss it. Is it normal?

A Humming Sound ... at the Center Console ... as engine speed increases ....

NEED to hear personally .... advice ... get a technician to check ....

4) There is a "cricket" somewhere in the aircon console - very difficult to pinpoint. Getting slightly annoying. Anyone has this experience? Where should I start searching for the "cricket"?

same issue to the abovementioned ....

5) The boot area becomes rather warm and the boot "floor" is warmer to the touch. I keep my exercise gear and isotonic drinks in the boot and I don't think the heat is good for them. Is this the result of having a drive shaft nearby?

Probably the HEAT insulation was Out-of-order ...

check the HEAT SINK @ A Screening Plate ... Condition ...

it located at the Left Portion above the Exhaust Muffler ..

6) Brakes: when reversing, the braking power is greatly diminished compared to when I'm driving forward. Is this normal? Certainly didn't have this experience in the cars I've driven before.

Need To Be Checked The Brake Pad / Brake Disc Condition ...

At the REVERSING position ... The Brake Force are NOT so efficient if compare to the forward direction ...

7) Backlight for instrument clusters is a little dim (set to max brightness liao). Will changing of the bulbs help or is it normal? What size bulbs do I buy? Can I get the bulbs at the stockists listed here?

A Standard Bulb was 2 watts ....

you may try to fix a 3 watts bulb ....

Not a 5 watts bulb ... the temperature for 5 watts will melt the reflector ...

8) Lighting for gear position indicator: mine has no light at all, making me struggle to see the exact gear postion - not used to the gated type of gear lever. Is it caused by blown bulb? If so, can someone tell me the bulb size? I already saw vid on youtube on how to change the bulb.

Probably the BULB was Out-of-order ...

replace the bulb will do .......

9) RR power window is dead. No click, no sound when switches at driver and door are pressed. Before I start dismantling the door trim, can someone tell me how to trouble shoot whether it's caused by dead motor, or the "arm" ?

The Power Window System .... Try To Activates the system via conform control

wind down all the window .... closed all doors ...

lock the DOOR with the Key ....

HOLD the key at LOCK position ... do NOT release the key ...

all windows will wind up / closed up ... automatically ...

for unLOCK .. .. all windows will wind down / Open ... automatically ....

If The Rear Power Window System NOT function ...

probably the MOTOR was JAMMED ....

the window Motor was come with the REGULATOR ....

10) Wiper has no telescopic function - it just wipes in a perfect semi circle. Today I tried to lube the assembly but the damn cover cannot be prised open with screw drivers (the online tutorial makes it look so easy). Tried very hard, ended up leaving a series of "dents" on the edge of the cover. Anyone has better idea on how to open it?

Probably You Need To Remove the whole Wiper system ....

the GEARING had worn out .....

it that was the case .... you may need a NEW gear set ....

11) Washer pump does not work. No sound from the pump. I removed the pump and it looks old for an 18-yr-old. Will get a new pump and try. Or should I check the relay and btw, where is the relay?

That is NO relay for the Wiper WASHER system ....

Check the FUSE No 2 .... for condition ...

If the fuse was GOOD .... you may need a NEW Washer PUMP ....

12) When driving off, the doors don't automatically lock. How to program the doors to lock? My car does not come with alarm system. Will frequent locking/unlocking cause premature wearing out of the vacuum pod of the central locking system?

For W124 ... standard was NOT come with this system ....

unless you fitted with an Aftermarket Alarm System ...

Provided with Auto LOCKING system via the Brake Switch ...

the Doors will LOCKED when the Brake Pedal Applied ...

13) Most importantly:

I was given two keys which have square plastic part. No remote unlock/lock was given to me and the previous 4th owner does not have it too.

Key A: only fits the ignition lock.

Key B: fits the driver's door, glove compartment and the boot lid (I had to use lots of WD40 to get the key to work on boot lock as it would not turn at all initially).

None of the keys fit the passenger door - even after trying with lots of WD40.

Questions:

i) can I change the ignition lock so that it uses Key B (don't like to carry two keys)? If so, how and where to go about doing it?

ii) where can I duplicate/buy a spare key?

iii) can I change/modify the lock of passenger door so that it accepts Key B?

Sorry for the long list of questions. Maybe I should break them up in a few postings? Any advice will be appreciated. Will try to attend the La Kopi session but it seems I may not be able to make it.

Thank you!

Understand the Ignition KEY may NOT an ORIGINAL KEY for this car

Is Your Model Come with ORIGINAL Infra-Red Key System ...???

~~ A Remote Key you can press to LOCK/UNLOCK the doors

~~ A Reciever UNIT with RED/GREEN light at the Door handle and rear BOOT

Probably You Need To Replace / Order The IGNITION Tumbler ....

for the ORIGINAL key system from Mercedes-Benz Germany via Cycle and Carriage

hope This Helps , ......:car:

[Guest mushigen]

(Dr?) Gan,

Thank you for taking the effort to explain. Didn't know about the auto closing of windows with key, and also about having heat insulator at muffler, among other things. Really appreciate your input.

I think my RR power window regulator is jammed because when I try to unwind the window, the cabin light will dim a bit when I press the switch. This means there is some resistance faced by the motor.... haha time to DIY!

[Guest benzw124]

Hi there,

I have a w124 8V for about 4 years now and have had experienced similar problems to what you are experiencing.

I will not go through the list of questions as Gan has already pointed out most things above.

However just to add on a few cents.

First things first would be the lights. The lights in the instrument cluster are wedge bulbs and run off a reflector. Over the years, most mechanics cannot find the correct wattage and just use 5W bulbs and this melts the reflectors which results in very dim lighting. Mine was in that condition and I changed them to LED bulbs bought off eBay for a few bucks. While they are not very bright by modern day standards. They are good enough to see and better than stock. The same goes for the small wedge bulbs in the shifter console. Originals were frosted 0.3W or 0.2W bulbs. They are no longer in production and i think the lowest you can get now is clear 0.5W. I replaced mine with those and they do run abit hot and led bulbs do not fit. I am still monitoring to see if it will cause permanent damage but so far so good. I cant remember the bulbs I bought off eBay but will try and find them for you. They should be T10 wedge based for the instrument cluster and T5 for the shifter if i remember correctly.

Secondly about the reverse brakes. I had a similar issue and it turned out that my rear brake discs were severely grooved and warped as most of the previous owners forgot to release the parking brake while driving. I changed them for about a hundred bucks and the braking effectiveness during reverse is now fine.

Thirdly, the cricket noise is probably coming from the air con blower motor. The bearings are starting to complain due to age and it is not a cheap fix as the dash has to come off. If you turn off the aircon entirely does it still sound?

Fourth is the wiper, I had a similar issue on my 190E, I lived with it untill it was scrapped as it did not pose a major concern. You could probably get a used one from Propel though if you are really picky about it.

Fifth is the lock and key issue. I have the same problem as you just that I'm probably worse off as I only have one key and it works the ignition only and nothing else. What probably happened was that the previous owners changed the ignition tumbler as it is prone to getting seized due to age and did not bother buying a matching tumbler from the dealer due to the crazy prices. I am still trying to figure out how I can solve this cheaply but it does'nt really bother me as I have a remote alarm system. Will let you know once I solve it cheaply.

My advise for this car is to enjoy it and prioritize your repairs and budget about 1k-2K yearly for the first 2-3 years to do those repairs.

I highly recommend changing the transmission and engine mounts as well as the shock absorbers if they have not been carried out over the past few years or so. Also change the ball joints while you are at it as they fail often. They are still pretty cheap to get now albeit slightly harder as less stockists are carrying them. Shock absorbers should be around 250 for a set of 4 Bilstein comfort ones and another 150 or so for the 3 mounts. Do them together to save on labour and they will make a whole lot of difference to the car. When I changed mine, I thought my mechanic gave me a brand new car. Handling and ride comfort greatly improved and some strange sounds also disappeared. Another thing I highly recommend you to do is change all the fuses in the fuse box. It is located on the drivers side of the car near the brake booster pump(round circular thing) there is a metal latch that you cant miss on the fuse box. Get copper ones off eBay and change every one of them even though they look fine. The originals are really oxidized by now and can lead to some weird non existent electrical faults. I also recommend spending a weekend to strip the door cards and repair the door clips. On the numerous cars that I have seen most were broken or detached from the door cards and will rattle away while driving. Use only loctite glue and it should last a long time.

Good luck and enjoy the 124. They are built to last and I am planning to keep mine forever.

[Guest Countach]

benzw124 wrote:

I highly recommend changing the transmission and engine mounts as well as the shock absorbers if they have not been carried out over the past few years or so. Also change the ball joints while you are at it as they fail often. They are still pretty cheap to get now albeit slightly harder as less stockists are carrying them. Shock absorbers should be around 250 for a set of 4 Bilstein comfort ones and another 150 or so for the 3 mounts. Do them together to save on labour and they will make a whole lot of difference to the car. When I changed mine, I thought my mechanic gave me a brand new car. Handling and ride comfort greatly improved and some strange sounds also disappeared. Another thing I highly recommend you to do is change all the fuses in the fuse box. ..................... I also recommend spending a weekend to strip the door cards and repair the door clips.

Good luck and enjoy the 124. They are built to last and I am planning to keep mine forever.

Hello,

My 200 corners like a boat and suspension make clicking noises on bumps. I want to change it also coz its slanted to driver side whenever I am driving it, embarrassing too!

Did you change the spring with the new set of Bilstein? Did you buy the shocks and engine/gearbox mounts elsewhere and get it installed or all from the workshop?

Anywhere where I can see how they take out the door cards? On mine, they are ok but its the overstuffing of foams by previous owners that bothers me and also the pockets are loose.

Thanks in advance!

[Guest Countach]

mushigen wrote:

12) None of the keys fit the passenger door - even after trying with lots of WD40.

Don't use WD-40, they creat more rust than prevent them.

[Guest mushigen]

Benzw124,

Thank you for taking the time to write.

My suspension and the rest are OK. Previous owner spent $6500 overhauling the engine a few months back - I've yet to go down to the shop to find out exactly what was done that cost so much money. Previous owner is not familiar with cars and cannot tell me what was done/repair/changed.

My fuses do look old, and I was actually going to ask if I have to get back this type of retro fuses, as this is the first time I see such fuses.

The cricket is getting annoying. Funny how the sound did not appear during the test drive. It only appears when I drive, and stops when I stop the car but appears when the car vibrates slightly during idling. Switching on/of the aircon makes no difference, so I'll expect it's something loose inside and not coming from aircon blower bearing.

Secondly, my oil pressure gauge shows max all the time the moment engine is started. I think the oil pressure sender is KO. Thinking of DIY-ing, but will EO leak out when I remove the device?

I'm thinking of sending the car to be thoroughly checked by a mechanic. Can someone recommend a mechanic who goes for test drive to find out the various issues? I've read about workshops like Zen Motor or the ones at Dunearn Rd and Tanglin petrol stns.

[Guest benzw124]

Hi,

To Countach,

I bought my parts from the parts suppliers and brought it down to my mechanic to fix it. Its cheaper that way but most mechanics frown upon it. My mechanic encourages it in fact so thats pretty good for me. I did not change the springs as they were still in good condition. Only the shock absorbers, mounts and rubber bushes were changed. However, I think all W124s corner like a boat from new as they were not meant to be driven spiritedly except the E500s and maybe sportline editions. Changing the absorbers and mounts did reduce vibration significantly though.

For removing the door cards its a pretty simple affair and all the tools required are in your tool kit. Refer to peachparts.com for a full tutorial with photographs.

To Mushigen,

The fuses are the old style bullet shaped plastic ones, just change them to the copper ones available on eBay. I have not heard of anyone modifying it to accommodate the newer style ones as there is probably not enough space and pretty unimportant anyway. Besides retro is cool!

Your fuel pressure guage is fine if it stays at 3 all the time. Mine does the same thing even at idle. When it starts to drop below 2 under load then you should start to worry about it. Just check your oil level once in awhile to make sure.

I have not experienced the cricket sound before so I cant really help you then, but an experienced mechanic should be able to identify whats going on if you can replicate it.

I don't think most mechanics will have the time to test drive and find out all the issues with the car at one shot. Besides, a single test drive is hard to pin point all the issues in a 20 year old car. Perhaps you would like to use the car for a few more weeks first and jot down a list of repairs or problems that you can find. After which, prioritize the repairs into urgent and non urgent ones and bring it down to the mechanic to do the important repairs first. Repairing everything at once can be a potentially wallet squeezing affair and I would suggest to do the repairs slowly.

I highly recommend my mechanic which is located at the shell petrol station, near Newton and opposite Autobahn Motors along Bukit Timah road. He has serviced my car to a good standard,is near town, is experienced enough with these type of old luxury cars and his rates are pretty reasonable. Pm me if you want the contact.

Cheers

[Guest mushigen]

Benzw124,

I guess you are right about waiting longer before proceeding to do the repairs and prioritising them. This car is such a joy to drive that I tend to forget its age and want to get it sorted to perfection.Although I like the car a lot, I sometimes wonder if I have the ability to handle and troubleshoot the W124's repair needs.

You see, this 18-year-old car is so mechanically different compared to, say, a COE-paid Toyota Corolla (at least to me). The learning curve is steep. I am still surfing the internet to learn more about this car - everyday. Each time, I never fail to learn something new. While this is good, it also makes me wonder what else I don't know. My friends keep asking me why I torture myself by getting such old car when a PARF Japanese car will be so much more trouble-free to drive.

It is easy and very tempting to just leave the car to a mechanic to sort it out once and for all but that is not the character of a W124-lover, correct?

So, the priority now is to get the windscreen washer pump replaced, check the non-illuminated SRS lamp on dashboard, change all the fuses and catch that blardy cricket :bounce:

Oh yes, just topped up my petrol from half tank. FC is 9.2km/L - lots of gentle driving. Can't wait to burn some carbon on NSHW.

[Guest mushigen]

An update on what I have done:

1) Changed all the fuses in the fuse box. Btw, are there any more fuses to change besides those in the fuse box?

2) Changed the instrument cluster backlight bulbs (2 pieces, 3w). Thanks to Gan, if not I would have bought the 5w ones because 3w is hard to find and 5w should be brighter (oops).

3) Replaced the bulb at gear position indicator (mine was blown, thanks to Gan again).

4) Replaced wiper washer pump. Now the washer is working

5) Replaced SRS warning light bulb at the dashboard - as I had expected, there was no bulb inside and once I put in the new bulb, the light remains on all the time. I checked the seat belt buckle connections under both front seats, they are OK. Do I need to visit C&C to get it checked, or are there any recommended w/shop that knows how to handle the SRS?

6) Another question: if I remove the car battery -ve terminal, will it cause any CEL to come on? (I'm actualy contemplating removing the airbag module to check).

In my previous car, the workshop actually plugged in an auxiliary power supply when I changed the battery. Also it possible to "reset" the ECU by disconnecting the battery like what we'd do for Japanese cars?

Thank you for reading.

[Guest RTCS]

mushigen wrote:

An update on what I have done:

1) Changed all the fuses in the fuse box. Btw, are there any more fuses to change besides those in the fuse box?

2) Changed the instrument cluster backlight bulbs (2 pieces, 3w). Thanks to Gan, if not I would have bought the 5w ones because 3w is hard to find and 5w should be brighter (oops).

3) Replaced the bulb at gear position indicator (mine was blown, thanks to Gan again).

4) Replaced wiper washer pump. Now the washer is working

5) Replaced SRS warning light bulb at the dashboard - as I had expected, there was no bulb inside and once I put in the new bulb, the light remains on all the time. I checked the seat belt buckle connections under both front seats, they are OK. Do I need to visit C&C to get it checked, or are there any recommended w/shop that knows how to handle the SRS?

6) Another question: if I remove the car battery -ve terminal, will it cause any CEL to come on? (I'm actualy contemplating removing the airbag module to check).

In my previous car, the workshop actually plugged in an auxiliary power supply when I changed the battery. Also it possible to "reset" the ECU by disconnecting the battery like what we'd do for Japanese cars?

Thank you for reading.

Hi go pay Gan a visit at his workshop, he solved not only my SRS warning light, but also ABS warning and air-con compressor problem. You won't regret.

[Guest mushigen]

RTCS,

Gan's w/shop is in JB, right? He is highly regarded in mybenz. I'll try to visit one of the recommended mechanics here first as I try to avoid going to JB if I can.

At least I now know where to go if no one can solve my SRS problem here in Sin - C&C will be too expensive.

[Guest Magixz]

Good to see you getting more active here...

Lawrence

[Guest mushigen]

Went to JB yesterday (21/4) and decided to drop by a workshop recommended by a few bros who sent me PM after finishing what I needed to do there in the morning.

SRS problem solved. Now the check light goes off after self-diagnostic. :becky:

Oil pressure gauge needle stuck at 3bar - caused by frayed wiring harness that links to starter and the oil pressure switch. Looks like I have to quickly buy this wiring harness and have it replaced in Singapore or risk being stranded if it gives way. Too bad I "keh kiang" and bought a new engine oil pressure switch.

Wiper not able to telescope due to damaged plastic gear. Replaced with the new assembly.

Changed all 4 brake pads and brake hoses and renewed brake fluid.

Changed rear brake rotors.

Changed ATF and filter.

Boss also did a check on my car, noted down what needs to be changed, and provided me with the part number of the things to buy in Singapore because he says spare parts are much cheaper in Singapore.

Highlighted to him that my engine has rattling sound and he immediately found the cause - defective fan belt absorber (I didn't even know fan belt has an absorber).

Soft gentle humming sound that I mentioned is from the rear axle - not going to do anything about it yet as it entails changing of the axle. Will use it till the noise becomes unbearable.

Also given many tips and pointers on the art of owning a Mercedes in general, and W124 specifically. Boss is very knowledgeable as he specialises in Mercs.

All parts supplied by me except brake fluid and one gear lever bush. I was there from 11.30am till 8pm. Yes, they made sure the job was completed even if it meant doing overtime.

Thank goodness the parts that I will be buying for my next workshop visit are not that expensive. I am lucky to have bought a car which is in a very good condition and requires no major repair. I am a happy man now. :bounce:

[Guest iamawesome]

Hey what kinda LED bulbs did you get off ebay for the shifter?

[Guest mushigen]

Hey what kinda LED bulbs did you get off ebay for the shifter?

Is your question directed at me? No, I used normal bulb for the shifter. Cheap, good and gets the job done. Of course LED, if available cheaply, will be good as it is not hot to the touch.