08 W211 Journey - Greetings to Bros & Sis

[CarCrazy]

It is easy to change part of the PS fluid but I don't think that will solve your problem.

 

Some if these minor noises are best left alone especially in a much used car. Because the cost of finding out and repair may not be worth it.

 

Likely to be your suspension components playing a part since you have a inner tyre wear problem. W211 have many ball joints in the undercarriage, unless you change them all. Otherwise it is difficult to diagnose as all components act on each other. Some ball joints give trouble because they are worn out, some give trouble because they are seized (hard to turn).

 

Absorber top mount could also be the culprit.

[ckcorona]

Thanks for your valuable input CarCrazy, it seems to soften and disappear from time to time, getting used to it but will monitor since there is no undercarriage strange noises when in motion or uneven rd.

[CarCrazy]

You check this one out first. Lower suspension arm and the Castor arm. Inspect their condition and loosen their camber bolts with tyres on flat ground (not when tyres are hanging on the hoist). Then re-tightening.

 

It is best done on a alignment machine.  The camber in W211 allows for 3 positions, so if the incorrect positions is fitted due to previous arm change or absorber change, you may have a problem.

 

As you know, W211 has Classic, Elegance and Avant-garde models. The Avant-grade model runs lower in height and if absorber is not original, the height maybe higher, then your camber is affected. 

[ckcorona]

Thanks for your valuable tips bro.

Feeling sian today. Too much stuff in my pocket including the remote and while alighting the car at mscp, accidentally pressed the boot release button on the remote. What comes next was a "tuck" and the boot swing open and "bam" with the edge of the boot hitting the metal railing. It caused a paint chip and now at Autobacs buying the touch up paint. Argh. ..

[ckcorona]

Forget to mention, Autobacs having lots of sales now. One that caught my attention, Bosch wiper 650mm going for 19/pc usual 50. Piaa replacement wiper rubber 19.90/pc. Seems cheap.

[ckcorona]

hi guys, found this product at Autobacs which I personally found it effective to remove sour or odd odor emitting from the ac every time for a few seconds, mostly in the morning 1st start. It's on offer from 30+ to 23+ bucks now.

Try this if u still have smell after replacing the ac cabin filter. It works for me.

Under the passenger glove compartment, there is a black panel held by 2 torx screw. Remove the screws and you can take out the panel. Disconnect the connector on the panel for the foot light.

looking underneath, you will see 2 plastic black brackets each held by white slidable catch. Pull the white catch towards you and after that, pull out the black bracket to expose the ac cabin filter.

I put the ac to cold, turn on the circulation mode, make sure all ac vents are open and full blast the blower. Next, shake the can and press the button till it locks and keep spraying. It will spray upwards so be careful of your eyes. Place the can underneath the glove compartment where the ac intake is. The spray will be sucked into you blower and to the coil the out from the vents. Closed all windows and door, let the process for 15mins.




Sorry for the pic and Hp batt running low. You can actually see the 2 ac cabin filter (08 W211 facelift) which I took out on the mat. And also the can spraying the stuff out. After 15mins, open all windows and door while still blasting the ac to remove the chemical smell.

This morning when I fire up the car, there was no more sour smell. Seems to be working. Yeah!

[ckcorona]

It has been 2 days and there is no more sour odour, the whole cabin even during morning start dun smell sour like last time. Its a cheap investment, do give it a try!

 

Autobacs selling 3 different types. 1)Carplan S$13 2)Another well know german brand 30+ 3)Sonax 23+ (offer)

The other german brand should be good or even better (my guess) but I am a tight budget guy. Car plan cheap but after studying the product details, decided to go for Sonax.

[ckcorona]

The a/c cleaning was a success as there is still no foul smell to date.

Decided to try another problem solving DIY as my front passenger door puddle light and red right are not working.

1)Checked puddle light bulb; not burnt..

2)Check red light - LED type, looks fine

3)Check the fuse located at side driver dash, all OK

No choice, had to remove the door panel to reveal the wiring inside. It was rather easy to remove the panel with just 4 screws in all. Saw the flexible cable which was for the puddle, red light and the door handle (single LED type) being soldered before and the joints had broken. Managed to removed the flex cable and went home to re-solder. Total 6 wires to solder. Took a while to master the art of soldering. After solder, tested the continuity for all the individual cables, A-OK!

Connected back the wiring to the door control module, but sad to say, this time it doesn't work. I'm very sure that my flex cables are repaired, the only possibility is the door control module. Hiaz...

Guys, any more fuses to check or need to activate or reset? The other 3 doors' lights are all working fine...

[manson131]

Hi bros, any kt for rear absorber replacement? My ride w211 e200k '08 avant.

Was quoted oem $520/-

[ckcorona]

I guess it's around that price for a pair of shocks + labor, it could be cheaper though. Make sure get the same for AVG as our suspension is lower than ELE model. I think mine is running on SACHS. Why not give a call to those WS recommended, they should be able to give you a price guide for more accuracy. 

[manson131]

Thanks bro. By chance you know of any place selling the absorber at wholesale? My WS said the bilsten is compartible for avg n ele...i dun quite agree though..

[manson131]

Done with the replacement. Thanks bro

[vin85]

Bros reading this thread can share your views with a fellow w211 owner. Anybody experience sluggish start for the w211? I experience it all the time in C mode and I'm not sure whether it is normal cause the previous c200ml I drove dun have this kinda feeling. Appreciate if I can listen to your views. Thanks alot!

[ckcorona]

C mode starts with 2nd gear and in terms of pickup, it would be slower. As in S mode, it starts with 1st gear and definitely the pulling power would be better. It depends of what kind of driver you are, if you are those heavy footer, then put to S for faster pickup. If you prefer leisure and slow driving, C would be recommended.

[Odessus]

S mode drags gears too and will usually up gears only when red lined.

[Odessus]

If all else fails, paddle shift ftw.

[ckcorona]

1st, it was the rubber rubbing sound coming from the front left wheel when doing a left turn. Other than that it was alright, no other weird sound or knocking.

As the rubbing faded, it was followed by a knocking sound when doing left or right turn on uneven road. As a few weeks got by, steering wheel losing control when travelling high speed while making a bend.

Worst was yesterday, while going up a slope which was undulating, the esp kicked in and worst of all, the car went into limp mode and the dash showed 'esp inoperative see owner's manual'.

Walao, panic sia. Managed to slowly clear the slope and stopped the car. Restarted the car but the esp light remained although car not limping. Drove on and the next day when I started the car, esp light gone. Hooray, I thought. But after driving for a while, the esp light came on again. Sigh...

Searched the internet for more information. Found that can be steering wheel angle sensor, suspension components or steering wheel column components.

Went down CS this morning and they found that it was the left tie rod bush up the lorry. So changed both tie rod and also the tie rod end set with damage of close to 300 after gst and labor.

Went to sin min for alignment as CS was 30 bucks more expensive. After the alignment, the ride becomes normal again, no knocking, slipping and most importantly, no more esp error message.

So guys, I now know that our ride is so sensitive with so many sensors monitoring the ride. Good and bad I guess.

[vin85]

Bro, can recommend the workshop where you fixed your problem? Would like to rectify the similar issue on my car as well.

[ckcorona]

Hi vin85, it's chip soon at tampines. I personally feel that for my case, changing the tie rod where the rubber bush is should be sufficient. The tie rod end could have been saved for 45 a pc X 2 pcs. But maybe it's due to precautionary, so they changed both. Alignment wise, CS charging 80 b4 gst while the 1 I went at sin min is 50 net. If you want to save the hassle, then let CS do 1 shot.

[ckcorona]

While trying to isolate the fault, they also discovered that the bushes at the thrust arm and lower arm also show signs of aging. Din change it since they are not giving me sound or prob now. Not cheap as the thrust arm is 180 per pc, not sure of lower arm price though. Not forgetting the labor charges incurred.

More sian thing is realized that the undercarriage plastic cover is full of oil stain, they traced to valve cover gasket. Was told to replace n Labour will be almost 200. Sigh...

Thought of going back to the dealer to feedback, hoping that they can help me on the valve cover gasket leak while I will settle the mechanical side. Talk to the sales guy. But now all pattern comes out. So no point to pursue, I have to bare all.

Was also speaking to another sales guy, he had a pre - face lift e200k which was going to be scrapped today. Asked me to do 1 to 1 exchange for parts I needed. Heng the interior trim was similar, took the driver sun visor vanity mirror flap which mine was broken, front passenger door plastic near the edge of the door which I broke it while 1st time trying to pry open the door panel, left rear passenger ash tray which mine was with missing spring to eject when pressed. Last but no least, the breakdown triangle which mine was missing.

So at least I'm not so sore of my sales guy not helping me. Got back something in return.

[vin85]

Wah bro you really got alot of contacts. Would you be so kind and let me know if there is any fl e200k due to scrap? Im hoping to harvest a good pair of shocks as my front shocks are giving knocking sounds alr haha.

Thanks alot bro I'll bring down to CS on monday tonget it checked out. So far my car still driveable which is weird, it did not show any signs of limp mode but the inoperative indicators still appear. Right now everytime when I start the engine it will not appear, only when I start to drive then the inoperative indicators will appear.

[ckcorona]

Hi Vin85,

Not that my contact is good, just happened to be there at the right place and time.

For shocks, would recommend to purchase new as u wouldn't know the condition and how much longer it can last. You will need alignment too after that. Not worth to take the risk unless you intend to sell the ride very soon. Fl e200k also not so soon due for scrap, I think should be 06+ onwards.

[vin85]

My ride can last me about two years more before I source for another new one, hopefully can own an e250 by then

What do you think? Still get new? Lol...

[ckcorona]

When safety is concern, I think go for a new 1 lah. But ultimately your call.

Other body or cosmetic parts I dun mind salvaging from used car.

Used to have a mit lancer glx which I face lifted to the gt version with bumper front n rear, grill and side skirt and spoiler. It was a cheap and fun mod.

used to swapped engines for my rides in younger days too, but it came with many other necessary mod in order for the ride to be able to brake, grip the road and not damaging the engine with ecu, radiator upgrades etc. Thinking back, what a hassle. Maybe age catching up and balls shrinking. Hehe

e250, my target too. Consider trading in to get it now? Many offer for sale now.

[vin85]

haha, i just got my e200k. won't be doing anything until later la.

 

I like the e200k, big and comfy, just the fact that the shocks are making me worried. But my mech says it is not critical now.

 

My utmost concern now is the error messages about the inoperative esp, run flat indicator and speedtronic. the brake hold is also inoperative. I read the UK forums...they were suggesting to disconnect the batt to reset the ECU. wonder would it be wise to do it....