08 W211 Journey - Greetings to Bros & Sis

[ckcorona]

After owning the car for abt 2wks (minus 3 days in workshop for the torque convertor change), below are what I observed:

1)During cold start, the engine has this roaring sound which vanish after the engine has warmed up, normal I guess since my friend driving 08 W211 also commented the same. Correct me/us if wrong.

2)Engine/Gearbox are smooth, no vibration and jerk when gear change. The gear change is always around 2.6-2.8k rmp before it will upshift, wondering if it's normal? I'm light footed and in C mode most of the time. If in S mode, it will hold the RMP till ard 3.2k before it changes gear.

3) Still having 2 diff tones of whining sound from the engine bay, went to trouble shoot and they pin point to faulty AC bearing (lower pitch whine) and the idle pulley (higher pitch). AC compressor replacement abt 1k+ which the car dealer agreed to pay while I will cover the idle pulley prob. AC will be done at my trusted place tomorrow at woodlands and claim from dealer later. Bought the idle pulley and belt tensioner (kiasu so change also) for 100bucks b4 GST, Can help to recommend a workshop to replace the 2 pulleys and indicative cost?

4)What is the "Easy Entry Mode" which is set by the steering controls for?

5)FC wise, doing 40/60 city/highway, getting abt 11-12l/100km, Could even be lower if I'm doing 20/80 9l+. Acceptable range my guess?

Finally, a really nice ride to drive, love it when it takes corner and road strips, the car just felt so sturdy and every thing are compacted tightly without the shake and rattle as compared to my previous ride. Cheers!

[CarCrazy]

Hi,

 

You can get the aircon workshop to changed the idle and tensioner pulley at the same time. To change aircon bearing, they will need to remove the belt too because one belt drives all pulley. So why double job to go another workshop.

 

Easy entry mode means when you off engine and pull out the key, the driver's seat will shift rear ward and the steering will move upwards to allow more space for the driver to get out of the car.

[ckcorona]

Thanks for the information carcrazy,

Yup, mark cool was kind enough to replace the idle pulley and tensioner since the compressor is out. Got it done this morning together with the in cabin filter change. Car is so much quieter now and the ac blower level can be lower to get the same amt of wind. The cabin filter was badly clogged.

Oic, that's a good function as I'm 1.82m tall and getting in and out compare to my previous mpv was a chore.

Thanks for your input brother!

[ckcorona]

The car dealer was gentleman enough and reimburse me 980 which was the cost for ac compressor and in cabin filter change. Guess I got a good deal for the ac as I was quoted much more by some other workshop.

[rocknroll14]

#2. Yes, the gearbox behaves that way. Change gears around 2K+ RPM. I think my gears is the same as yours (5-speed auto).

 

#5. That's about what I've been getting for my W212. Trying to find ways to lower it though, but have not found so far.

 

Great to know that you are happy with the fixes. Maybe the dealer was taken aback when you bought without even test drive.

[ckcorona]

Been driving for 1k km liao. There is still a constant purring/whining irritating sound coming from the engine bay. It varies with the rpm whether in gear or park/neutral. Ac compressor, idle pulley and belt tensioner changed. Dunno where the heck the sound is from. Any good troubleshooting workshop to recommend?

[rocknroll14]

Won't you go back to your dealer's workshop? The one that you went to fix the other issue?

 

Car Crazy had recommended a workshop in another thread in this sub-forum, you may want to try that one.

[CarCrazy]

Hi, there are 2 more components to go in the engine bay.

 

Most common is the power steering pump. You can turn your steering and listen if the sound is much louder.

 

Next will be the big thing Supercharger (I assume yours is the 1.8L).  The oil inside the supercharger can be change. It is a special supercharger oil by Mercedes. You cannot put in any other oil and the volume is very little like 200ml.

 

Maybe it is easier to just rev the engine with bonnet open, then get someone to listen where it come from. Either power steering or Supercharger.

 

However, check your power steering fluid 1st. All Mercedes regardless of model consume power steering oil.

[ckcorona]

Won't you go back to your dealer's workshop? The one that you went to fix the other issue?

Car Crazy had recommended a workshop in another thread in this sub-forum, you may want to try that one.

[ckcorona]

Won't you go back to your dealer's workshop? The one that you went to fix the other issue?

Car Crazy had recommended a workshop in another thread in this sub-forum, you may want to try that one.

The dealer workshop in sin min is actually specialize in auto trans, as for the rest I don't think they are expert in that field. My previous incident with them when I complain to them about rattling at the left muffler area. They sent it to another exhaust shop and started to cut open the sealed muffler saying inside metal rattling. I couldn't stop them in time and ended up having a 3-4inch cut which was welded back. I pin pointed to them it was the heat shield that was rattling and I was spot on, resolved after pressing the shield back into position.

My Ac compressor, idle pulley and tensioner were changed at woodlands ind park e, specialize in Ac. Even the dealer also asked me to go ahead to my workshop after getting quote from his usual workshop. Basically such workshop just sub-contract out to another workshop to repair which I dislike, car was like driven here and there and I had hard time tracking and speaking to the person in charge.

[rocknroll14]

My dad just serviced his S-Class (W221) that has sound from the engine bay as well as undercarriage/wheels at a workshop my dealer (Shuang Hup) recommended. Workshop is called Aesop Autocare at AMK Industrial Park 2. He told me the experience was good and they managed to resolve his problems. Perhaps you can give it a try. I have not gone there myself.

[ckcorona]

Went to 1 of the recommended workshop at Kim Chuan to trouble shoot. The boss test drive the car and mentioned that it's normal for W211 to purr due to the super charger, it's just how loud it can be. Verdict is car is normal, so I think gotta live with it. 

[kepiting1sg]

Went to 1 of the recommended workshop at Kim Chuan to trouble shoot. The boss test drive the car and mentioned that it's normal for W211 to purr due to the super charger, it's just how loud it can be. Verdict is car is normal, so I think gotta live with it. 

 

Yes! W211 SC can be "loud".

The SC whine at high rev!

The E230 will be "quiet" will it's NA engine.

[CarCrazy]

Seek a 2nd opinion for the whine. Although supercharger do whine but not so loud. It is going to be in a comparative sense.

[ckcorona]

I can understand that the sc whines during sudden or hard rev but for my case, even when in P or N with light tap on the accelerator or normal driving, it sounded like a male cat on heat! It can be heard very clearly in the cabin. When in MSCP, sounded even louder.

 

CarCrazy: Nope, no sound with the power steering when turning left or right.

 

Sound is very linear with the rpm. When gear changes, sound changes too.

 

Out: AC Compressor, Idle pulley, Tensioner (all changed)

        Power steering (confirm no sound)

 

Suspect: SC, Transmission pump, Alternator (very unlikely)

 

Will try to have it checked out by other workshop when have time.

 

Thanks bros for the input.

[CarCrazy]

Don't rule out alternator as it also spin with engine speed and inside it have 2 bearings.

One of the way if your workshop entertain this idea. Use a shorter belt, exclude the supercharger, then you see sound still there or not.

[ckcorona]

Went to a workshop in the east for whining sound trouble shooting. They are nice ppl, despite me just popping by, they test drove the car and also use something similar like a stethoscope to pin point the sound. Belt was removed with running engine and the car was so much quieter. Main culprit is the supercharger pulley and also slight noise from ps pulley. They said it's common for e200k and even demonstrated another e200k with a even louder whine. Boh pian, guess my ears are more sensitive. Unless able to change the bearing on the SC, else not worth to shelf out a few k just to replace the whole sc and dunno how long it will remain quiet.

[CarCrazy]

Is the workshop willing to try to change the SC pulley bearing? If they can take out the bearing, sure got parts as bearings runs on generic part numbers

[kepiting1sg]

Went to a workshop in the east for whining sound trouble shooting. They are nice ppl, despite me just popping by, they test drove the car and also use something similar like a stethoscope to pin point the sound. Belt was removed with running engine and the car was so much quieter. Main culprit is the supercharger pulley and also slight noise from ps pulley. They said it's common for e200k and even demonstrated another e200k with a even louder whine. Boh pian, guess my ears are more sensitive. Unless able to change the bearing on the SC, else not worth to shelf out a few k just to replace the whole sc and dunno how long it will remain quiet.

 

CK

Noise from the SC is subjective!

If comparing to a TC, it will be louder.

TC compare to NA, TC is louder.

I've driven a 2004 W203 C180 (5 years) & a late 2007 W211 E200K (1 year) - all having the same M271 1.8L engine & SC.

On the 2004 W203 C180, I've previously modded it with a W203 C230 SC, Kleemann K-Box, Pulley Kit, Headers & hollowed out the cat converter 

If you have the time, give me a call any Saturday afternoon and let me listen to your whining SC.

I should be able to tell you whether it's normal or abnormal noise from your SC.

mobile: 91777772

Now probably many of us will understand why used W211 E230 2.5L NA is popular.

Likewise was the previous Pre-FL W211 E240 2.6L NA.

I've sat in a 9 year old 2004 E240 and the car was so quiet than my previous late 2007 <2 year old E200K 

[ckcorona]

Thanks for the offer, will arrange when have time since both are family man,

 

Now having a new prob which I think it's not too difficult to resolve just labor intensive to find the root. Experiencing fluctuation rpm especially during cold start in the morning. when ac is turn on, it becomes worst. Though the range is not large, -100 to 150 rpm down from normal 750 even after warm up. Does that too even when in gear when stopped. Normal idling rpm also becomes slightly higher to 800-850 at times, displaying sign of vacuum leak or dirty sensor (I hoped).

 

BTW, any bros know where to get the screw driver for unscrewing the air filter? It's not cross or flat head. Wanna try cleaning the sensor and throttle valve using some sensor safe spray carb cleaner. 

[CarCrazy]

Hi,

 

Sounds more like a Vacuum leak which is super common in this supercharger engine. Soon the Check engine light will appear. 

 

Anyway the screw driver you are looking for is call Torx screw and size is T20 or T25. You can buy them as a set at Mustafar centre tools dept. Very cheap. less than $5 whole set.

[ckcorona]

Have been bearing with the varying rmp for some time, seems like getting from bad to worst especially during cold start. Sigh, cannot afford morning time to go workshop to settle and afraid that by going in afternoon, will not have enough time to check.. Maybe try to drag till next svc coming in <1k km or until CEL comes on; whichever comes 1st.

 

Hi Carcrazy, thanks. I bought the Torx set. max size I could find was T25. But it still works great to open up the air filter compartment (very clean air filter found) and many other areas.

 

1) My passenger side sun visor was stuck in position and unable to tilt down. Took it down and sprayed WD40 into the metal rail and pull/push the visor in/out the rail. Twist it around a couple of times, clean off the black dried grease and do a few more spray and turn. Now the visor works great, able to tilt down effortlessly and still lock into position when up. (Removed with the Torx set, yeah!)

 

2)The rubber insulation of the boot lid stopper located at both sides of the lid were breaking/melting into pcs. Observed a few w211 also the same, seems common. I loosen the 2 screws and removed the rubber insulation surrounding the metal pc completely. Cleaned it, taped up the long U-shaped rubber and removed the stopper before spraying it black. After dried and installing it back, looks much better now and I bet most won't noticed the diff. (Removed with Torx set too!)

 

3)Asking a very noob qn, I always press the upper left and right corner where the "Horn" icons were located, but need to press hard. Anywhere to press in order just to have a short light beep?

 

4)Argh...noticed that my front passenger door puddle, door red light and ambient light behind the door handle not lighted up. But the lights on the memory seats are OK, what could be wrong? Light blew, fuse blew or?? where is the fuse located?

 

Aiyo, slowly noticing more and more nitty gritty stuff faulty... gek sim.

[kepiting1sg]

No 3. Horn- It;slike that one lah!

 

No.4 Puddle light - likely blown T10 bulb or loose contact - go pry open the cover and check your bulb

 

don't kek sim - enjoy your ride or see me tonight - on mc today!

[CarCrazy]

Hi CK,

 

Glad that you managed to fix some things yourself. Drive old car must be a little hands on

 

Item (3).... change the horn itself. Too long or seldom horn, the membrane in the horn rusty.

 

Item (4)...most likely connector loose or didn't plug back. Some work was done on the door panel and they had to unplug the wiring but forgot to put back.

 

Plus some luck to solve these little bits of issues.

[ckcorona]

Thanks Kepiting & CarCrazy,

 

The horn can be rather intimidating when pressed. Sibeh loud and power.... at times just wanna give a friendly/gentle tap but ended up otherwise with the other party staring straight into my face like WTF u wan????

 

Door lights, sigh....I used to be very hands-on type donkey yrs back from small DIY jobs like change bulb, sparkplug, air filter and solving rattles to more tedious job like sound proof floor and bonnet, change brake pads, replace whole radiator and bumper etc... Now old liao, tends to sprain here and there. Hahaha, that's why cut down on such. Anyone knows the Torx screw size for the door panel, seems like T25 or T30. My max tools is only T25, dun wanna take out halfway and LL put back due to insufficient tools.