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Found 5 results

  1. Had always wanted the flared rear fenders look and finally got hold of the parts numbers to order it via MB parts stockist Wanted to install it myself so decided to research into how to do it. There are no instructions available online specific for the GLC. Took me some effort to get hold of 2017 Mercedes-Benz WIS, referenced the instructions and the actual new fender trim I was replacing for locations of the tabs and clips. Tried the replacement and completed the project within 60mins as I wanted to be as careful as possible so as to not break any tabs. Took some pictures of the process and made into a pictorial instructional video. Hope those looking to swap out your rear fender trims find this useful!
  2. For those interested to have instructions on how to remove the door panel, please refer to the other thread on that. http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/25356-glc-remove-front-internal-door-panel/ After the interior door panel is removed, this is what you have. Notice the empty triangular speaker grille? Look at the following picture for reference on where are the clips and connection points. This will let you know where to push/pull to release the stock grille as well as where the new rotary tweeters should be installed. The highlights are colour coded to show where the surfaces are mated. Blue to blue, green to green and red to red. The 3D Rotary Tweeter main housing installed in the position of the former orginial empty speaker grille. This is the 3D tweeter held up and labeled to show the important connection points. Essentially split into 2 sets: S= Speaker L=Led. The various connection points before attachments After connecting to some of the stock door connectors Now hold up the interior door panel, connect S1 connector to the door panel speaker, plug one of the blue connectors to "5" slot of the DCM. Plug the other blue connector to L2 connector. Next, you are ready to reinstall the door panel: - reattach the door latch wire - thread the door lock knob through the hole in the door panel - line up all the panel holder 8+1 bits, make sure the top horizontal window edge is "hooked" along the attachment ledge. Start to give firm hard thud using heel of your palms to secure down the door panel to the metal frame. - screw in the 2 T30 torx screw into the original holes. - switch on your engine and enjoy the fruits of your labour!
  3. How to remove and install the door lock pins yourself. Applies to most if not all Mercedes car models. 1. Tools and material - replacement door lock pins (make sure they are the correct dimensions and length) - claw wrench - rag 2. Original plastic door lock pin, make sure it is in unlocked postion. Retract your windows fully to prevent accidental damage from the wrench action. 3. Using the rag to protect the relatively soft plastic door pin, grab the pin firmly with the claw wrench and twist it in anti-clockwise direction. 4. How the removed plastic door lock pin and the anchoring screw stub looks like. 5. Installation of the stainless steel door pins are simply twisting them in clockwise direction till they are finger tight. I don't find any good reason to make them tighter than that. Unlocked position: Locked position:
  4. Simple 5-10min job to remove the orginal door puddle/safety light and replace with door projector lights. 1. Materials and Tools - Door Projector Light pair - trim removal tool / plastic pry tool 2. Original door puddle light/safety light..... Undefined murky mess of dim lights 3. The door projector lights. Exact same housing as the original. So is plug and play. 4. Use the trim removal tool, pry out the original light housing as so. Unplug the connector. 5. Installation of the projector lights are simply just connecting up the connector and popping the whole assembly back in.
  5. After changing to the rear flared fenders, realised that my rear wheels are too "tucked" in to be aesthetically pleasing. I like the non-staggered 19" AMG rims with the RFT from factory, which is a good compromise between comfort, handling and aesthetics. So, decided to add spacers to push out the rear wheels after much research on the effects on the suspension and handling. Did a comparision on the specs of the factory options 19", 20",21" and came to conclusion that I can push the rear wheels out by 20 to 30mm without differing too much from the bigger staggered options rims. Someone asked me why not just pay a small amount to a tire/wheels shop to get it done? Why go through all these hassle? Well, for one, for proper installation, we need to apply anti-seize on the right surface, torque the bolts till factory specs and after driving around for 150km or so, we need to remove the wheels and retorque all the bolts again just to make sure they are secured. I don't think any of the workshop will take as much effort to do the above properly. As with all diy projects, the sweat and aching arms and back is all well worth it once you are done and took a step back. So here you go, the installation pictorial. https://youtu.be/SdXI4eh43TA As mentioned in the other thread, the secondary goal of the spacers installation is achieved with the increased lateral and cornering stability. I can go round curves, sweepers and bends at higher speed than before. Definitely more sure footed than the stock standard track width.