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VRAtenza last won the day on March 12

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About VRAtenza

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    2nd Gear

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    East Coast
  • Mercedes-Benz Owned
    W203 C350
    X253 GLC 250 AMG Line

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  1. For those interested to have instructions on how to remove the door panel, please refer to the other thread on that. http://www.sgmerc.com/topic/25356-glc-remove-front-internal-door-panel/ After the interior door panel is removed, this is what you have. Notice the empty triangular speaker grille? Look at the following picture for reference on where are the clips and connection points. This will let you know where to push/pull to release the stock grille as well as where the new rotary tweeters should be installed. The highlights are colour coded to show where the surfaces are mated. Blue to blue, green to green and red to red. The 3D Rotary Tweeter main housing installed in the position of the former orginial empty speaker grille. This is the 3D tweeter held up and labeled to show the important connection points. Essentially split into 2 sets: S= Speaker L=Led. The various connection points before attachments After connecting to some of the stock door connectors Now hold up the interior door panel, connect S1 connector to the door panel speaker, plug one of the blue connectors to "5" slot of the DCM. Plug the other blue connector to L2 connector. Next, you are ready to reinstall the door panel: - reattach the door latch wire - thread the door lock knob through the hole in the door panel - line up all the panel holder 8+1 bits, make sure the top horizontal window edge is "hooked" along the attachment ledge. Start to give firm hard thud using heel of your palms to secure down the door panel to the metal frame. - screw in the 2 T30 torx screw into the original holes. - switch on your engine and enjoy the fruits of your labour!
  2. There are request for DIY walkthrough for installation of the 3D Rotary tweeters. I shall split the instructions into 2 parts for categorization and ease of search. The tool you absolutely need is simply just a Torx driver with T30 Torx bit. The rest are really good to have: trim removal pry, grip work gloves, addition narrow tip flat heas screw driver to depress the connector's release tabs. And before starting, lower both the front windows until fully retracted, reduce the chance of brealing the glass panels. Next swtich off the engine and power to the car. 1. Using the T30 torx bit driver, unscrew the torx headed screws from the 2 locations circled in red. A magnetized torx bit will be better to make sure your unscrewed screws don't drop into some of the narrow gaps in the door frame. 2. Next, use the interior trim pry to pull the interior door panel from the metal door frame. The locations of the various panel studs are shown in the picture as illustrated. So pry at the right location. Be careful of the door lock stub once the panel is pulled free from the frame. Make sure you don't lose any of the panel studs. 3. Once the inteior door panel is free from the door frame, remember you still have a few connections to release before the whole panel can be moved aside. - Unhook the door latch cable and unplug the connector as shown. - unolug the original speaker cable and connector from the door panel speaker. - unplug the wires and blue connectors that are plugged into "5" and "6" slots on the Door Control Module (DCM) After all the above is done, you can remove the interior door panel and move it aside to a safe location so as not to scratch or damage the surfaces. Now you are ready to install the 3D Rotary tweeters.
  3. Got it from Taobao. http://【奔驰新E级S级C级GLC C200L E300L柏林之声3D旋转高音头喇叭改装】http://v.cvz5.com/h.x7sJCY 点击链接,再选择浏览器打开;或复制这条信息¥nACQ0i2vqSK¥后打开👉手淘👈 This is the seller. Don't pay the listed price for GLC. I managed to haggle the price down to about ¥2800 shipped to my parcel forwarder in GuangZhou. After that is just another $10-$12 of shipping to Singapore. Just tell the seller you do not need the installation service to kick start your bargaining. Not sure if it can be fixed on Burmester but I don't think I will meddle with Burmester tuned setup if I have. Have to remove the door panel to install the tweeters. Not difficult. If anyone keen to do this I can create a step by step DIY guide on door panel removal and how to connect the wires.
  4. Having owned my car for half a year...I have always been using the keyless entry. Only last weekend I tried using the remote to unlock, then I was my first time seeing the blue glow of the DRL that other overseas forum was talking about. Pretty cool I must say
  5. Just DIY installed my own set of 3D Rotary Tweeters for the GLCs with non-Burmester (ie. Audio 20) setup. Everyone knows by now the Audio 20 do not come with tweeters and the wing mirror area grilles are empty. Stock sound is passable for my non audiophile ears, but it could be better. I don't feel like spending 3-5k on aftermarket Burmester. The effect is amazing.... Especially if you have installed tha matching matt silver speaker grille covers for your mid speakers in the doors. The led lights will match the 3 colours of your original ambience light automatically. The center round piece will light up and rotate out on start up. Will retrack back when power down. There is an immediate improvement in the sound quality with better clarity and staging. It does so by hijacking rhe original signal to the mid range speakers and split the higher frequencies to the tweeters and sending the rest of the lower frequencies back to the mid range door speakers. Unboxing: Before: After: Startup sequence video:
  6. I did some read up on these air valve caps and their effect on TPMS internal sensors. Corrosion due to the material used for the special valves with these aluminum valve caps are top issues overseas but that is also partly because they have snow and salt on their wheels once a year. Another school of thought is that the special TPMS air valves acts as an antennae to allow the communication of the internally mounted sensors with the vehicular body TPMS control unit. so putting an aluminum cap might mess with the signal. I keep my dull grey plastic caps on despite it being an eyesore..LOL
  7. Very useful DIY walkthrough! I wished I had it when I did mine...could have saved me half the sweat and scratches. LOL On hindsight, could the "airflow channeler" (the 2 grey plastic pieces on each side of grille) have been installed onto the diamond grille prior to putting it onto the bumper? Might have saved a bit of effort. Cannot remember clearly now, I was just very glad that I managed to complete it...LOL
  8. Good to see another handy DIY GLC owner! Satisfaction of DIY....priceless!
  9. Good job! the looks are coming together nicely! Keep it up!
  10. I realized that there seem to be some uncertainty when it comes to pumping the "right" pressure for the GLC. I guess partly because most are new to SUV and RFT (Me in cluded!) When I first collected my car from C&C, after a few weeks of driving, when I checked the pressure at the petrol station, I was shocked that my tyre pressures are 310 kPa all round. I suspect that was because of shipping that they pump the tyres pressure much higher to make sure they have minimal sideway movements during their RORO shipping. C&C must have not corrected the shipping tyre pressure prior to delivery. So I brought the pressure down to 275kPa (warm) all round. The ride is better and less nervous on low speed uneven surfaces. Subsequently I just allowed the pressure to come down gradually to about 245 kPa (warm) after a few months of driving. Even more comfortable but lose abit of the cornering limit due to more tyre sidewall deformation. Had thought about putting it back to 275 kPa to confirm the differences I felt but happened that I was sending in my car for CEL issue, I also took the opportunity to get them to do the 5k rotation. When I received my car back from C&C, I was surprised that they pumped the pressure to 285 kPa (front) and 265 kPa (rear) [warm] I wonder If there is a reason for the front higher and rear lower pressure kind of setup. the pressure is also very much different from the recommended pressure at the fuel door. Anyone care to share what is your preferred tyre pressure setup? My tyres are 235/55 R19 front and rear. Borrow this picture from Aling's post:
  11. Update: got back my car after left it for full day at C&C. - was told the CEL is due to software issue, so they did an update. So far no recurrence. - was also told they took the opportunity to updated the software for a minor "fuel issue" recall. - had highlighted the slowing system clock, they checked and acknowledged it as a common complaint, but no solution yet. Was told will check again during 1st servicing. - had my 5k tire rotation done. $25 from the service credit. Maybe it's in the mind, the car seem to drive smoother. 2nd gear use to be abit "rough" under certain condition, now i don't really feel it... Still need to monitor abit more.
  12. http://【奔驰满天星中网C200L钻石C级新改装GLE专用A级】,复制这条信息¥4IWr0XXrBkn¥后打开👉手机淘宝👈 here you go!
  13. If I am not wrong, the figures are for tyres when cold. So you should pump about 240-250 there abouts if you pump at the petrol station after a long drive. My TPMS will show 220-225 all 4 wheels when cold and when warmed up will hit 245-250. I noticed my rear 2 wheels tends to be of higher pressure than the front by about 5-10kPa. if you see the label in detail, it says exactly what I observed. To add +30kPa when tires warm.
  14. just sent my car in. wait for them to update me on the check light. I hope it is a one time off thing.