Ricebandit

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Ricebandit last won the day on October 20 2014

Ricebandit had the most liked content!

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About Ricebandit

  • Rank
    2nd Gear
  • Birthday August 18

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    rice_bandit_r32@yahoo.com.au

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Coast
  • Mercedes-Benz Owned
    W124 300CE-24
  1. Posting this on behalf of a friend. W126 300SEL COE till 31/03/2028 $6k depre, $3.5k road tax. Still cheaper than an Altis, and frankly, which would you rather be driving? Excellent condition W126 300 SEL, the list of work done to it is extremely comprehensive (see pic for partial list) as the owner intended to fully restore the car and keep it, but changing circumstances dictate that this beauty has to go. Car is superb, no cracks or tears in the original tan leather, the headlining is original and near perfect, and the walnut burlwood trim has no cracks. Engine has been rebuilt by a reputable old merc specialist as reliability and adherence to factory procedures was paramount. Paint and body are in great condition, given that it was treated to a full respray in Mercedes dark blue last year. Zero rust. The owner is a lovely lady who appreciates classics and refuses to skimp on car maintenance. The car is ready to enjoy with no repairs needed. Number plate to be retained. Price is negotiable on viewing, please do call/sms/whatsapp 90261800 for more details. Asking $56,800 #classic #mercedes #w126 #sonderklasse #300sel #retro
  2. The system turns the pumps on for 1 second when the key is turned to the on position. This pressurises the fuel system in preparation for start. After the engine has start, the fuel pump will run continuously.
  3. i think its 4 10mm nuts, then just pull the breather hose off, and the whole air filter assembly can pop off. Turn the key to ignition on, you should hear a buzz for about 1 second. Usually it's pretty faint sounding, keep the door open, and you'll hear it from the rear right wheel area. If no sound, then the pump is shot.
  4. Sounds like you have a hot start issue, a result of fuel vaporising in the lines after the car has warmed up for a while and then shut down. The cause is likely one of a couple of items related to maintaining fuel system pressure after shut down. Assuming that in the morning, the car starts normally, fast idles (around 1000rpm) then after warming up drops to around 700rpm, and that your idle is smooth as well as your acceleration (especially when overtaking), the fault is most likely the fuel pressure accumulator. To test: 1) when car is cold, turn ignition key till all the warning lights on the instrument cluster illuminate, but do NOT start the car. You should also hear a light buzz coming from the rear of the car on the driver's side for about 1sec. (this is the fuel pump priming the system) 2) turn the ignition key off, and pop the bonnet. 3) look for the fuel pressure regulator it looks like this (the brass coloured cylinder with the curved pipe coming out the top) grab a 17mm spanner. 4) Wait 15 mins, then loosen the fuel line leading to the fuel pressure regulator. Make sure you have a rag around it to catch the fuel spill. 5) If fuel sprays out after loosening the line slightly, then the accumulator is OK. if it just dribbles out, then you need a new accumulator. You shouldn't lose more than a few ml of petrol. Make sure that you retighten the line properly and wipe the area dry. 6) Start the car, and check for leaks from the fuel line that you just tested. If no leak, you can close up and drive to get the accumulator replaced. happy driving!
  5. GTG Signup List: 1) snsd555 2) chris 3) keltanky 4) markcwq 5) odessus 6) Ah Bui 7) wnws 8) Angsnj 9) darksaint 10) BabyA 11) lhraiders 12) metanoia 13) melvsee 14) deryklascanzi (will come if I can knock off on time) 15) nicobogoss 16) asteroids 17) cts1984 18) mga180s 19) J&E (try to make it after 530pm if I can) 20) J888 21) Raymond kcgoh 22) Johng 23) AMG28 24) rickosw 25) darrenwei( I need the decal) 50%/50% coming...son swimming lesson 26) Pocket_Rocket (Decal Please) 27) cktee (decal pls) 28) Callylow 29) slimb 30) Lonelyby2 (Try to Recfm again) 31) jeremerc 32) stanford 33) audiorook (Decal please) 34) ron5000 35) benzeighty 36) AlexLee1911 (Need Decal) 37) Leozen (Need Decal) 38) Raymond (newbie here..) 39) Skyway 40) Pineboy (newbie / decal pls) 41) Edmund (newbie) 42) Leonard (newbie/would like to get the decal) 43) ricebandit ***Do not remove name/s and add-on from latest posting list. Thanks. Dinner Signup List (Please indicate number of pax): 1) snsd555 2) chris 3) keltanky 4) markcwq + 2 5) odessus 6) Ah Bui 7) Stanford 8) J&E (might pop by) 9) skyway +1 (maybe) 10) nicobogoss (maybe) Last min entry
  6. nope, I guess will have to open up the door trims to take a look.
  7. Hi guys, what size speakers are in the front and rear doors of a W212 E250? Any recommendations for speaker upgrades? Thanks in advance
  8. Extremely sad. A man lost his beloved wife and only child. Drive safe everyone.
  9. Can be privately owned car but need commercial insurance. I have a few friends who are doing it.
  10. Hi Desmond, The emblem could probably be ordered through any of the stockists like tye soon or sing tat. As for the meter, I would suggest ebay, the reason is that you have to match the cluster to the car, because different cars may have different gear ratios. Yours is a 280S so it will be different from the 300SEL or 420SEL. Problems from using the wrong instrument cluster include wrong RPM indication and wrong speed indication. This may be what you need, but I'm not 100% sure, please match yours correctly. http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Kombi-Instrument-Mercedes-Benz-280-S-SE-SEL-Mercedes-Benz-W126-W-126-/201395212533?hash=item2ee41710f5
  11. Google street view would be in a hell of a lot of trouble.. lots of photos of everyone's property taken without permission
  12. Take the old one out as a sample, then when you go to any accessories shop to buy a replacement, you will get the right one! Use whatever spec is original fitment, and change the bulbs in pairs Procedure may be in the user manual, or if in doubt, I'm sure lots of pictorial guides/youtube videos available online.
  13. Use distilled water.. tap water and mineral water will build up limescale on the inside of the radiator and head, and they are also slightly conductive, which will lead to corrosion inside the radiator, water pump, and head. Mix 50-50 MB coolant and water, as the MB coolant has anti-corrosive additives. Too much coolant is also no good, as it will actually impede the ability of the water to transfer heat.
  14. Like ANY used car, buy a good one, cared for by someone competent. Parts are not expensive, and plentiful. There are plenty of workshops that claim to be "specialists", and most seem to be ok, given this is an easy car to work on. Lack of complicated electronics means that lots can be DIY'd if you know how to use a socket wrench. The 2 weaknesses - very few mechanics are any good with electrics, and because it takes time to properly diagnose (unlike nowadays where you can just plug in the OBD scanner), you will commonly see patch fixes, where wiring looms have been butchered, and relays spliced in to fix symptoms, while the root problem persists. The other thing is very few actually understand the KE-Jetronic injection system, so they bypass parts to get a car running smooth but you end up with poor fc/performance etc. So look out for cars that have lots of aftermarket wiring/relays in and around the engine bay (usually near the a/c compressor or behind the battery compartment), butchered wiring below the fusebox or the relay compartment behind the battery. The pristine cars are often sold before they even hit the market, though that's not to say the one's for sale aren't good - the usual buyer beware caveat applies. This would be the difference between a happy and problem-free ownership experience, and one fraught with frustration and tears and $$$.
  15. What width tyres are you on, and what is your tyre pressure?? rolling resistance plays a big part in highway fuel consumption. Maybe do a quick tune up - clean the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor, check the plugs and cables, and adjust the idle air-fuel ratio. After all that is done, go for a good 4 wheel alignment. Other things that will affect your FC over a long distance - the condition of your wheel bearings, differential etc etc.. take your time to work through them. I now average 8.2-8.4 driving around Singapore, which is ok I guess for my engine. Guys on the 2.0 can get 9+ in Singapore and over 11 on NSH. *edit p.s. the claimed factory performance is 13.9 / 11.2 / 9.2 (11.1) km/l ECE for 90/120/City. Real life figure more like 11.4-14.6 / 7.3-9.3 / 9.2-11.7 / 10.6 :extra-urban / city / highway / average combined